Customizing Q&A Thread

[UltraPrimal]

Originally Posted by Nemesis Predaking

Brushing I assume?
Acrylic, 20-30mins
Enamel, 3 to 4 hours
If you see that your "pulling paint" on you next coat with either paints, stop & let it flash longer.

Thanks, Stu! Yep, just using the old brush.

I tried doing a second coat of enamel on a couple pieces after a couple hours, and while I wasn't pulling paint, it didn't look right going on.

Also, what do you mean by "flash"? I assume it's pro customizer talk for just let it sit.

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Originally Posted by UltraPrimal

Thanks, Stu! Yep, just using the old brush.

I tried doing a second coat of enamel on a couple pieces after a couple hours, and while I wasn't pulling paint, it didn't look right going on.

Also, what do you mean by "flash"? I assume it's pro customizer talk for just let it sit.

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

Flash = Flash time (how long til you can handle it)

I rarely totally brush paint, so I'm not a good person to ask.

[Robimus]

Originally Posted by UltraPrimal

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

In my limited experience I've found that Krylon brushes on quite smooth(just spray it inot an empty butter container or the like), but I suck with water based acrylics and such.

[chans formers]

Originally Posted by UltraPrimal

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

main thing to remember is to keep your brushed on coats light,then almost always clearcoat over it with a spray.
like some others have said,if you also thin out your paints you're brushing with,it'll help it flow out more even and give you a bit more "work time".
again,with the clear spray though,light coats.

a good motto for spray bombing(rattle can paint)is
"how it sprays is how it stays",which also applies to most paints from a can or gun.

[Plainsjumper]

Originally Posted by vohkuhl

My comment is not meant to bash Encline cause he does great work!

Mine isn't either... just in case anyone took it that way. Was just relaying my own experience.

I think I will actually try using it again on a qtip for a few hard to reach parts on my figure... apply and remove quickly is what I'm thinking 70% Iso works but is comparatively slow.

[brr-icy]

Originally Posted by UltraPrimal

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

when i do mine using games workshop paints, i paint a piece, then dip my brush in the water, and wet the whole surface of the paint, when it dries, it's perfectly smooth

[bedtime]

so guys i've got it in my head that i may try and make a stepper/ricochet out of RTS jazz... anyone have any good ideas for which gold paint to track down?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Originally Posted by bedtime

so guys i've got it in my head that i may try and make a stepper/ricochet out of RTS jazz... anyone have any good ideas for which gold paint to track down?

Whatever you use, stay away from Enamels.
They are always "thicker" then most enamel paints & "glop up" super fast. This applies for all metallic enamel paints.
At least IMO

[brr-icy]

Games workshop blazing gold is nice and easy to apply, I would coat the area in silver first though, it makes it shine better,

[bedtime]

Originally Posted by brr-icy

Games workshop blazing gold is nice and easy to apply, I would coat the area in silver first though, it makes it shine better,

thank you! hopefully theres a games workshop near-ish me... i remember one being in the eaton center but i feel like that ones gone now