Repair Thread

[StarFire]

For painted sections, I use a diluted isopropanol-water mix with Q-tips and an old tooth-brush. Don't soak the parts in the mix; soak it up on the Q-tip and rub it on the part. If you're cleaning dyed plastic, you can use isoporpanol at full-strength, and soak it if you like. I Remove any screws first though; I don't know if isoporpanol can rust them, and never want to find out

[alicethegoon]

If you want your G1 Transformers to shine like brand new, a company called Novus puts out a line of plastic cleaners and polishes that can bring your beat up transformers back to life. The line features #1 Plastic Clean & Shine, #2 Fine Scratch remover, #3 Heavy Scratch Remover. This stuff works really well and is based on cut polishes (little bits of sanding grit in polish) used in the automotive industry. #1 works great on all surfaces except painted chrome areas. #2 is my favorite and works great on all dyed plastic...OOOOEW I can see my reflection. #3 if used with a little muscle can remove some pretty good scratches. You can find the stuff on ebay. I am not an expert with Transformers but I have been collecting vintage palstic toys for years and this stuff does rock. Some of the other more seasoned contributers might have a better sugestion.

[Clutchburn]

Any tips for touching up paint on Binaltechs?

For some reason both my BT Swindle and Hound have small chips on the front left fenders, on the flat black section.

[dak]

I'm going to say just a small bottle of flat black paint from the hobby store. just a quick dab is all you need.

[Clutchburn]

Thanks Dak, any recommendations of the best kind of paint for die cast?

[brr-icy]

i have a g1 tracks that the thin metal strip for clicking the leg into place broke, should i just get another one? or is there a way to fix it? also, my alt meister's arm falls off all the time, anyway to fix that?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Originally Posted by StarFire

For painted sections, I use a diluted isopropanol-water mix with Q-tips and an old tooth-brush. Don't soak the parts in the mix; soak it up on the Q-tip and rub it on the part. If you're cleaning dyed plastic, you can use isoporpanol at full-strength, and soak it if you like. I Remove any screws first though; I don't know if isoporpanol can rust them, and never want to find out

Isopropyl Alcohol will not rust any screws, I use 99% to strip all my part & I've never had rusting them. However rinse the part off after but remove the screws first or they will rust.

[dak]

Originally Posted by brr-icy

i have a g1 tracks that the thin metal strip for clicking the leg into place broke, should i just get another one? or is there a way to fix it? also, my alt meister's arm falls off all the time, anyway to fix that?

metal strip, unless you can make another one that is identical, it's best to just find the part from a junker Tracks.

The Arm Problem could be fixed by adding a bit of clear nail polish, or a thin coat of super glue on the shoulder joint, not the pin part. not too much or the pin won't lock in. But also, that shoulder joint is designed to break like it does, for safety. but it's a shame they made it too loose.

[crimbot]

Hey all, I just picked up my first g1 scourge and boy was I excited to get him home and cleaned up. he was a bit yellowed, and his stickers are worn but tight. I decided I would try to clean up and reprolabel a figure for the first time, and I used a product called Goof-Off (kinda like Goo Gone) anyways it seemed all was well and it was actually getting rid of the yellowing, but to my dismay, it was actually eating the plastic. to add insult to injury, before I made the discovery, I tried another section of painted plastic and it took the paint off. I'm pretty sad, so now I'm looking for good plastic cleaners to use in the future that won't harm my figures. Might try that Novus stuff, has anyone ever tried anything else??

Moral: don't use goof off on toys!

[dak]

paint thinner works alright. Make sure what ever you use it is Acetone Free.