custom vinyl how to

[chans formers]

this is for the guys pm'ing me on how to use "vinyl".it's pretty simple to do so i'll keep it simple.
vinly is available in many different sizes and colors.it can be found at most plastics suppliers and guaranteed to be at your local sign shop.



tools you will need=

• vinyl
• sharp exacto-blade or olfa knife
• toothpick
• hairdryer(or a handheld torch if you're confident with small tools)
• cardboard for a cutting surface(once you get used to this you shouldn't really need the cardboard,but while you're learning,it's better than cutting on wifeys coffee table.)

let's get started shall we?
our sacrificial lamb today will be the main bot from the gobots "puzzler" combiner.say you want new metallic blue windows.take your metallic blue vinyl and lightly draw with an ink pen the general shape of the window you want to cover.keep in mind you want to make it a bit bigger than the actual window.

now cut out the shape you just drew and lightly place it on the window area.

starting from the very center(up and down/left and right),rub your finger outwards towards the window sides.(keep care not to press down the vinyl that goes "past" the actual window line)
once you've done that,take the toothpick and run it in the grooves of the window.this will help it "sit" into place.

once you sit all the edges down,this is where the heat comes into play.take your hair dryer and heat up the whole area until the vinyl slightly "curls" on it's own.it shouldn't take too long for that to happen.now, while the area is still warm(not hot!!!) to the touch,go over the entire window once again with your fingers and the toothpick in the edges.this is to help activate the glue in the vinyl and it also helps it "conform" to the shape and curvature of what ever you're working on.

once that's done,start trimming the vinyl with your blade,following the recessed areas/grooves in the window.if the vinyl is bunching up as you cut it,replace or snap off your blade so that it's fresh.the most important part here is a "sharp" blade.you should only have to literally "glide" over the vinyl and it should be cut.as you do more,you'll start to learn how "deep" you should cut.different vinyls= different cutting pressure.

on areas where the vinyl goes past the part,you can run the blade flat and parallel against it,and you should get a ultra clean cut.

once all has been trimmed,go over your edges again with both the fingers and heat.
congradulations,you now have a shiny new metallic blue windshield.

[chans formers]

to do side windows it's basically the same process.
draw and cut out a shape that pretty much the same as the said window.

the only difference i've found with side windows is that you need to really sit the vinyl down into the seams,and this is where the toothpick comes into play again.you should be able to use your fingernails for the most part,but right around the triangular area which is normally around the side mirrors is where you want to use some heat and the toothpick.

once you've done the picking and heating,you can then proceed to the cutting again.(make sure to have a sharp blade!!!!!)

when you peel the excess off,always peels at a 180 degree angle and "inwards toward the center.this will help eliminate the chance of the excess lifting off paint if it's a custom paintjob you're working on.
once alls said and done,again,add some heat till everything's warm to the touch.

[chans formers]

lets say you want some snazzy new vehicle decals.i'll do a simple one like a lightning bolt on his hood.
first,draw lightning bolt on the vinyl with the ink pen lightly.(keep in mind,though designs are only limited by your imagination,the more "intricate" it is,the more time you'll spend "cutting".)

once you've drawn it out,cut out the shape,but "don't" remove it or any excess around it just yet.
take some rubbing alcohol or i like to use 90proof alcohol,and dab and rub it right on top of what you just drew and cut.this will remove the pen ink.

pluck that sucker out of the vinyl and again,just gently place it where you want it.
once you like the position,then you can press it down,keeping sure to push it into all the grooves and recessed areas/bodylines it runs over.heat it up and set it again,and boom......
"lightning" quick hood decal that's one of a kind


after you completely finish decaling your bot,if you wanted to,you can clear coat it with krylon clearcoat.just remember not to "pound" it on, or it may actually seep under your decal and "lift" it.just "mist spray" the clearcoat very lightly.also keep in mind that if you spray a "matte/flat" clearcoat over a shiny metallic stripe,it will end up being a dull "grey".

[Mighty_Galvatron]

Ah, and you can use the very same materials to create TF logos for your actual car.

[GMfan]

THAT'S how you do it!!! YOU MAD MAN!!!!

[GDkitty]

hmm.. never thought of that.. my brother MAKES vinyl store signs.. i should ask for some of his scraps to be able to use for things like this

[Ultra Maverick]

This is great advice,
I think I will be trying this technique very soon.

Thanks for sharing!

[DeltaCommando17]

Sweet, this would come in handy for a custom I was thinking of doing

[chans formers]

Originally Posted by Mighty Galvatron

Ah, and you can use the very same materials to create TF logos for your actual car.

it's pretty much the exact same stuff.you can get it in 5-7-10 year rated.it just means it will take that long out in the sun/elements to breakdown,but if it's on a tf in a display case etc,it should last forever.if you don't clearcoat it,you keep the option of being able to switch it up with just a heatgun/hairdryer,as opposed to painting where you would have to strip it or sand it down before the redo.

Originally Posted by GMfan

THAT'S how you do it!!! YOU MAD MAN!!!!

lolz!!all you had to do was ask and yee shall receive

if enough guys are interested in this technique,i can add more to this tutorial,more specifically how to wrap body panels/etc. this tutorial is more for the smaller details so far

[Oreobot]

This is a great idea!