Repaints & Minor Mods Sanding/Painting Joint Question

[carissa]

Hello board,

I finished converting and painting a DOTM Deluxe Specialist Ratchet into Ironfist using Wheeljack's Shapeways kit.

I still consider myself a relative n00b in the customizing department and I didn't sand the edges down before painting. It's a tight transformation, but it does work. I had the biggest trouble, however in the shoulder joint. It is held together with pins and I am wondering if there is a way to sand it down without learning how to take pins out. Pictures of one of the shoulder joints are included below, and I will put photos of the entire repaint job in a new thread in the TF section.'

The last question I have is, can Future floor polish be used as a sealing agent? If this has been discussed on another post, can it be pointed out for me?

Shoulder joint from the front:


from the top:


from the back:


Thank you

[Rodimus Prime1]

If you don't want to remove the pins, its real hard to sand. All I found to do is rotate it and scrape with a xacto knife or file but its pretty hard with limited access.

I use Tamiya or Krylon clear if I want to clear coat, never tried FFP but I've read a lot of people use it .

[General Tekno]

I've heard as well that Future works; when it comes to pin joints I've usually just worked around them given I lack the tools/expertise for pin removal.

[UsernamePrime]

floor polish is good to tighten joints that can't be seen but isn't good as a coating agent to protect paint. Despite being clear it can discolour the paint a few shades towards yellow a bit and it's always going to leave a gloss finish.



Buying a brush on acrylic clear coat is best with an option to get it in gloss/semi gloss/mat to match the rest of the figure.

[GotBot]

With similar issues, I tend to paint, thinly, and then use a quick spray of testor's spray laquer.

[UsernamePrime]

For great paint results try using a 75% distilled water 25% floaide mix in a dropper bottle to dilute your paints. Wet pallets make for best pallets as well.

Vallejo makes great paints (and clear coats) that come in a dropper bottle for more control on amount of paint used and to accurately recreate custom colours.

I would avoid spray coats if you're only doing small bits or movable parts. I also find testors to not be the best paints for plastic, they make decent enamels for metal though.

[GotBot]

Originally Posted by UsernamePrime

For great paint results try using a 75% distilled water 25% floaide mix in a dropper bottle to dilute your paints. Wet pallets make for best pallets as well.

Vallejo makes great paints (and clear coats) that come in a dropper bottle for more control on amount of paint used and to accurately recreate custom colours.

I would avoid spray coats if you're only doing small bits or movable parts. I also find testors to not be the best paints for plastic, they make decent enamels for metal though.

Good ideas. The spray is great though and I have also used it to thicken joints nicely but you gotta be delicate. Agreed about the paints though.