Customizing Q&A Thread

[Nemesis Predaking]

Originally Posted by Cliffjumper69

Anyone ever used Mighty Putty on a custom? Can you paint over it? And whats a good glue to use?

Thanks


CJ

Originally Posted by Cliffjumper69

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.................


CJ

I have, on a few of my projects, you can paint over it just fine.
I only use it for things that Gamesworkshop Green stuff does not fry fast enough to hold in place.

Originally Posted by Cliffjumper69

Alrighty, Im trying to remove paint with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, the parts have been sitting in a tub of Isopropyl Alcohol for almost 24hrs, and its not coming off. Any other ways of removing paint. (no counting sanding)


CJ

If 99% ain't taking it off with scrubbing. I doubt it will come off. You should be safe to paint over it, if thats the case.

[dak]

Originally Posted by Cliffjumper69

Anyone ever used Mighty Putty on a custom? Can you paint over it? And whats a good glue to use?

Thanks


CJ

I use it all the time. excellent for filling medium sized gaps and sculpting parts. I use Bondo for large gaps and hobby filler for small ones. Mighty Putty is also called "Plumbers Putty", but in a blue color instead of green.

[brr-icy]

not very long, i would have it on the rag and wipe it over, and don't do anywhere close to joints, GMFan will tell you it weakens the plastic

[Terminal Hipster]

I've got a question I'm hoping someone can answer, regarding stripping paint from softer plastics. For a custom I'm working on right now, I need to strip all of the paint off of Classics Sunstreaker's roof/windshield. I've already managed to strip the paint off the rest of the figure using Tamiya acrylic thinner and an old toothbrush, and it did the job fairly easily, but for whatever reason it's taking forever to get the paint off the soft plastic surfaces.

I've heard nail polish remover is good for stripping paint off of TFs, but I've also heard it can dicsolour or even warp clear and soft plastics, which I'd like to avoid for obvious reasons. I was hoping someone here could clue me in to a better way of doing this?

[TTT]

WELCOME !!!

I would just give the area a good cleaning & paint away
Like Alt Grimlock's roof, primed & spray painted it many a time

EDIT* But anywhere else I would strip it.

[Terminal Hipster]

Thanks, but what I actually need to do is remove the black paint from the inside of the windshield so I can paint the inside with a Tamiya Clear Acrylic colour. I guess I should've been more specific whan I posted my question. The acrylic thinner I'd been using was working, but painfully slowly.

In a moment of impatience over the weekend, I caved and tried using nail polish remover... BIG MISTAKE, as I figured it would be going in. It stripped the remainder of the black paint, but it did leave the clear plastic looking frosted where I (gently) worked it away using a q-tip.

I think I've got two options now - use some wet sanding films to smooth and buff out the frosted area on the inside of the "glass" or just paint the colour I want on the outside. Or I guess I could always sacrifice another Sunstreaker to the project... :P

Oh, and thanks for the welcome!

[Foxw]

yeah NPR will frost the traslucent plastic. actually ANYTHING that will remove paint Will frost it if applied to much. though 99% alchol takes much more contact, just alot more scrubbing but it is easier on the plastic

[Wodicus]

I have been thinking of repainting a spare Universe/Classics Ironhide. What is the best way to go about it? disassembling the figure first then paint? or Just paint with out disassembling?

Also, I like to use warhammer paints. Should I bother putting a layer of primer over the toy before painting? Or is that a bad idea?

Thanks

[dak]

I guess it depends on how much and what you want to paint on the figure. If you're painting the entire thing, it might be a good idea to separate as many pieces as possible, and then paint. But if you're just touching certain area's, then you might not need to worry about it.

If you're putting a lighter color over a darker one, a primer is a good idea so you get that true color. Games workshop paints are pretty good for covering without a primer layer, my only issue with them is they don't hold to plastic too well. I use GW paints for accents rather than whole paint coats "most of the time".

[CyberMnky]

I'm looking to replace the head on my Alternity Megs, I don't care about the engine cover plate thingy, but I was hoping to find something more Beast Megs looking to match the Reprolabel set I got him... Any suggestions?