Repair Thread

[JaAm Prime]

I was using the testors enamel. Thanks TheTransTorture. How much does that other stuff cost?

[TTT]

No probs, it works great for styrene plastic(model cars).
$3-$4 a crack, I've only found them at local hobby shops(or Games Workshop) - no retail stores in Canada carry them.
Buy new brushes to eh ?

[Bruticus82]

Okay, 2 problems today:

1.
I have one of those G1 reissue starscreams, the official hasbro one I guess because the box is in English.

In both plan mode and robot mode his 'nose' is perfectly straight, but when transforming him from one to the other the nose veers off to the side before straightening back out again. None of my other seekers have this problem. Should I be concerned about extra wear/tear? Anything I should do to try and fix it?

2. I'm fixing up my G1 omega supreme. One of the problems I'm having is with the electrical. One of the battery contacts is severely corroded. Does anyone have any ideas on the best way of removing this corrosion or replacing the battery contact?

So far I've tried rubbing alcohol, and sandpaper, although the sandpaper is hard to use on such a small spot. Neither one appeared to work very well. I'm thinking replacing it would just be easier, but I don't know what to replace it with, or how to work with those...rivets? Or whatever it is that keeps the contact in place.

[TTT]

That's a tough 1 bro (or 2 I should say).
Not sure about the seeker prob, anyone else ?
The corrosion may be a build up of gunk that is now part of the contacts, try a little baking soda & water.
It may help to take apart all the electronics & work on it outside the figure, if you can.
I would call a (electronics)repair shop that deals with these things & see what they say.

[dak]

the seeker one is prob a mis aligned pin. I have that issue with my Classics cliffjumper. If it looks alright in both robot mode and Alt, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Bruticus82]

Thanks for the info guys.

I've attached a picture of the battery contact I'm talking about, I took a picture of the back side (not corroded) because it shows more detail about the way these contacts are attached. Those little holes go right through, and it looks like they're, well, riveted, although that's not the right word. Is anyone familiar with how to remove those properly?

Also anyone have any ideas for testing the rest of the electronics? I'd hate to go through all this to replace the battery contact and then find out that the motor is bad, or something similar.

[TTT]

Hmmm...not sure about this.
Have you tried putting in new batteries & see if it works ?

[Bruticus82]

Okay, I decided to take the plunge and take him apart a little further. I was able to test his motor and lights separately, and they both work!

On a separate note while taking him apart some gears in his head have fallen out of place. Anyone know how to open up the base his head stands on? There are two screws, and then it just splits apart, but I'm getting resistance near the neck and I don't want to force it.

Anyone have experience taking apart G1 Omega Supremes?

UPDATE: I took off the visor, unscrewed the head, and was then stuck because I'm faced with the lightbulb, the bottom half of his head, and a white plastic ring sitting on top of that bottom half which causes his canon to wave up and down as it turns. None of these would budge. There were two tabs that looked like they could be pushed in to let me release the ring, but upon actually pushing them they seemed to do nothing. So I gave up and use three pairs of small tweezers and much patience to get the gears back into place properly. Note to others: Don't let the gears fall too far out of place. They're a pain in the @$$.

So I put him all back together, and he works, with the exception that one of his white plastic cams (the ones that allow for walking mode action) is broken.

Does anyone out there have a replacement for sale, or know a source for repro cams?

[Bruticus82]

Just wanted to share with everyone the story of the successful repair of my G1 Soundwave cassette mechanism.

So apparently the plastic snapped years ago down by the hinge on the right hand side. It was glued but the plastic warped so that the eject button no longer worked.

I opened him up, identified the warped plastic as the problem, and tried to brainstorm a way to realign that flimsy transparent plastic without breaking it. I thought I didn't really have much to lose by trying heat. After about 20 seconds from the hair dryer I just straightened out the plastic with a little pressure and it stayed, good as new. I let it cool down to make sure it wouldn't just deform again. Closed him all up and now he's working fine, although his eject mechanism is very sensitive.

Still, I'm sure Soundwave would rather be a premature ejector than suffer from ejector malfunction.

[The Ark]

I just picked up Animated Voyageur Lugnut and half of his cockpit section will not remain locked in place in vehicle mode. Any recommendations of how to remedy this situation?