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Old 01-15-2008, 08:13 PM   #1
dak
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Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

This thread is designed to be a resource thread to teach different Kitbashing techniques. The tutorials are submitted by various Canadian Kitbashers, and feature step by step instructions of how to perform the task.

If you have any questions about a particular tutorial, please PM myself, the author of the Article or leave a reply in DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread. If you would like to submit a tutorial, PM it to me (dak).

INDEX

TTT's Battle Damage for Dummies - Page 1, Post 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
StarFire's How to Make Basic Flames - Page 1, Post 7, 8
TTT's Alternator Door Removal - Page 1, Post 9
chans formers Panel Lining 123 - Page 1, Post 10
racerguy76's Paint Stripping and Priming Tutorial - Page 2, Post 11
TTT's Spray Painting Tutorial - Page 2, Post 12, 13, 14
chans formers How to stiffen your loose g1 bots - Page 2, Post 15
chans formers Sun Damage Removal - Page 2, Post 16
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:14 PM   #2
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Submitted by TheTransTorture

Battle Damage for Dummies ....like me.

DISCLAIMER:

* Before you attempt anything in this tutorial let it be known that this involves techniques that can cause severe burns as well as the use of a "dremel" power tool with cutting disc which can cut through you a lot easier than it can cut through plastic. Proper eye wear protection is essential to avoid flying bits of hot plastic in your eyes.

* Keep children AND pets away when attempting any of these techniques.

* Work in a well ventilated area as some techniques involve melting plastic - you do not want to inhale any smoke or paint/glue fumes.

* Know/learn how to use tools shown here properly before attempting any of these techniques.

* Author of the tutorial and any website it's linked to is not responsible for any damages or injuries as a result of attempting any of these techniques.

Alrighty ! Here we go...

Here is Alt. Silverstreak, he's gonna help me show you how we do things around here...




2 things you'll need : a solid metal rod, I use shower curtain rods.
Bobby pin. (Guys get your gf to pick these up for you - save yourself the shame - LOL)




First were gonna create some laser wounds & small dents and fish out an eyeball...
Laser wounds: I use a (mostly)straightened metal curtain rod, I get the tip super hot almost red hot - I'll let you decide how you heat yours up, use a safe heat source
Once hot apply the rod to the desired location on the figure and PUSH ! - But be careful !
Melting plastic should be displaced around the wound, pull out your rod (... never mind...) soon after, if you leave it in too long the plastic will harden and crack as you remove the rod.






Dents: same thing, just heat up that rod and touch areas where a dent is needed - this work great on a corner like near the top of the head.


Eyeball removal:
I mostly use the bobby pin for this but sometimes if I'm going for a more gory look I'll use the curtain rod. Just get it red hot and PUSH !



Repeat as necessary until eye is removed...

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Old 01-15-2008, 08:15 PM   #3
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Lets get crackin on some glass shall we ?

You'll need a pin for this one, if this was an MP Prime I'd use something bigger like a boxcutter or Exacto blade.
It's almost as easy as it looks:
Start by scratching a small circle as the center point then scribe in some long outward lines from the center of the circle.




Start in the center and slowly scribe your way outwards connecting the lines but try not to make them match up as you go, random pattern works best.






Other cracks:
For a more simple crack just scribe in by hand - practice on old CD cases.




This head light is made of very thick plastic so it's tough to work with - some are easier(Mirage) than others.

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Old 01-15-2008, 08:15 PM   #4
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Body Cracks:
I just use a boxcutter scribing in cracks on an angle, again - practice on old CD cases.




Cuts & more Severe Damage:

Dremel and cutting disc will get the job done. This more than anything else shown here is what will take the most practise to perfect so practice on what you can - KO's other toys etc.




Blown Off Hand:
Remove fist, cut the end of the arm off at the wrist.




Cut in lines of different depths and widen the cuts where the wrist was.




Try to arrange the blown off tips at different heights and sharpen them up a little with the dremel & disc.




The damage is done !

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Last edited by dak; 01-15-2008 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:16 PM   #5
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

OK we're ready for paint...

First thing I did here was dirty him up all over, this is done by giving small areas a good coating of flat black maybe watered down a little to get INTO all those hard to reach spots then wipe it off.
I usually do this within 1-2 square inches at a time.







Notice how this really helps the overall look of the damage !


Now do that with silver over your cracked glass ! ! !




While you got the silver out start touching up all those wounds ya burned into him...




And inside that arm.




You can also run your brush along the leading edges to give him a weathered/scraped up look.




Once everything has dried I will go over all the silver added to the wounds with a flat black wash. Done painting.


Wiring:
This is tough to explain cause I do it different every time.
This one I wedged in some metal wiring, crazy glued elec. wiring to it and added some ripped bits of tinfoil(industrial) to fill in the spaces.
I can't really plan anything until I have the arm opened up - then you gotta work with what you got. Wiring on the main body is usually attached by unscrewing parts(seat or inner grill), wedging the end of the wire under the part and screwing it back down.
One thing I ALWAYS see on battle damage figures with exposed wires is brand spankin new clean cut wires...take some needle nose pliers and get crazy, squish bits here & there - kink it, twist it... and FRAY the wires ends - make the wire casing look burnt at the end with a touch of flat black.







Guess what ? - Yer done !

Thanks to all who supported and inspired me - You know who you are ! ! !

Let me know how many you ruin !

TTT
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:46 PM   #6
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

The Result:

















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Old 02-23-2008, 10:03 PM   #7
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Submitted by StarFire

How to Make Basic Flames

As the name suggests, weíre going to make a basic flame pattern. There are many different ways to do it; Iím going to show you a simple method involving a mask that can be used with an airbrush or aerosol cans. Youíll need:

*sharp scissors
* role of low-tack painters tape (green or blue); the wider the better.
* sharp blade
* pencil and white eraser
* sketch of how you want your flames to look
* patience!



First, a comment about paints. Drying times and curing times are not the same thing. Paint may dry in one hour, but can take up to ten days to cure (properly harden and become fully Ďstuckí to the substrate itís been applied to). You need to know the dry and cure time for your paints before you attempt this. As a general rule:

Lacquers take 4-5 days to cure
Krylon takes 7 days to cure (itís similar to a lacquer)
Oil enamels take up to 10 days to cure (quick dry enamels may cure a little faster)
I have no idea the dry or cure time on acrylics as I donít use them. If someone knowledgeable about them wants to pm me that info, Iíll add it. After all, itís not the toolsóitís the workmanship.

Why does this matter? Because weíre going to be taping off and burnishing a completely painted surface to make our flames, and we donít want the paint to lift. As a former professional painter, I can tell you thereís nothing worse than having to do the job over again because you rushed your tape job. As a rule of thumb, I like to wait half the full cure time before taping. Also, you need to make sure the paint youíll be using for your flames is compatible with the base-coat youíve applied. Never apply acrylics on top of oils or lacquers; they simply donít bond well. In the following project, Iíve used oil enamel for the base coat, and synthetic lacquer for the flames.

Hereís my painted wing, with some of the markings already applied.



Using the painters tape, lightly tape of the entire surface. You need to pull this off, so donít press hard or burnish it. I should have used wider tape, but none of the paint stores in my area had any. Thatís ok, just overlap the tape half a centimeter or so. The overlaps must be lightly burnished to prevent bleed. Burnishing in this context just means rubbing the surfaces so they have a tight bond; your thumb and thumbnail work just fine.
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:03 PM   #8
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

You should already have a sketch made with the flame pattern you want.



Copy the pattern onto the tape with a pencil (I’ve used pen because it photographs better, but traced my pencil marks). You can erase any mistakes with a good white eraser, so don’t be afraid to do so. Just make sure you don't lift any of your tape overlaps.



Pull the tape off, and place it on a cutting board. Note that if you’ve used multiple layers of tape as I have, you must cut “down” the tape, so you don’t lift your overlaps.



Carefully cut out your mask. This is the most important step in getting nice flames, so don’t rush it!!

Position your mask on your piece, and burnish the edges well.



Then paint, using multiple light coats…I used 3 or 4 to get the colour I wanted. As soon as you’re satisfied with your paint job, pull your mask off. I wait a few hours, then ¨gently go over the flames with 5000+ grit sandpaper to minimize the paint lines at the mask edge.



That’s it! You may need to do slight touch-up on your base coat.

You could so this several times, to create multi-colour flames, or flames with shadows (using this method means the shadow layer is the first one to paint) but you’ll have to make sure you don’t paint too heavy, or you’ll get raised paint lines, and you’ll need to use high-grit sand paper between each coat (if you do that, try to avoid metallics—they don’t sand so well).
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Old 07-20-2008, 10:04 PM   #9
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Submitted by TheTransTorture

An Alt. door removal tutorial that will......BLOW YOUR DOORS OFF ! ! !


So I was just reading in some threads at TFW'05 about how no one could get Alt. Skid's doors off for repainting.
I thought Plowking had a trick he used on the Mazda Alt. door so without searching for the thread I just went ahead & tried what I thought he did.
I was wrong, I found an alternative that works on a few Alt. doors including the ever frustrating Scion mold...so here it is, a tutorial to walk you through the process...along with the help of "Hurtin Hound"
A super-duper detailed custom I've been working on, he helps me hold parts while i'm hitting them with hammers.(props to Plowking for nabbin this guy for me)




First thing is to find a nice sharp blade, I used an Exacto type blade.
Start by making sure the outer door is positioned all the way to the end forward or back.
Cut away a small amount of plastic in the middle of the inner door opening/slide zone, top & bottom...just a little, not the actual inner door, just the bit that hold the big pin in place.







Slide the door so the big pin is over the middle area where your cuts were made.
Insert a small screwdriver as shown and give it a light pry, if it doesnt pop off reapeat the previous steps & try again.







Once it's off you'll want to repeat what you just did only now to the other side to allow the door to be popped back on after painting is complete.
Again: cut away a small amount of plastic in the middle of the inner door opening/slide zone, top & bottom...just the little bit that will allow the big pin to be popped back into place.












ENJOY ! ! !
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:46 AM   #10
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Re: Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials

Submitted by Chans Formers

Panel Lining 123

hi guys.i recieved a few pms asking how to do panel lining.(if this is the wrong spot to post this i totally apologize,if it needs to be moved i totally understand.)
please keep in mind this is just a basic tutorial on how to do it.theres also many ways of doing panel lining but i'm only going to describe how i do it.here goes...
  1. wash your "donor"figure in sunlight dish soap and let him dry completely.(the last thing you want is greasy prints or mold release agents in the cracks that you want to line)
  2. most figures have recessed lines on it somewhere and thats where you want to run the gundam marker through.start from one end of the recessed area and go in one direction only.you can go back on the same line area again but usually it ends up thickening the line.
  3. if and when you skip/jump out of the line,have a small rag or paper towel nearby thats slightly damp.if you have to fix a mistake,always rub/wipe off "against"the line.if not,you'll end up wiping out more of the paint thats in the line,which usually results in a big black smudge.worst case scenario,use the rag and some isopropyl alcohol and wipe the whole area clean and start again.
  4. as you do the lining,you should start to feel how heavy or light you want to press down on the marker.the lighter you press,the lighter of a line you get and vice versa.
  5. theres also a happy medium between too little and too much panel lining.too much and it looks "cluttered".to little and it will look like your bots missing something.ive included pics of 2 mcdonalds bb's,one thats been lined and one without.ultimately in the end,if you're happy with the results than thats all that matters.(different folks,different strokes)
  6. i found that with the fine tipped gundam markers you can clear coat the bot after but make sure you apply the clear in ultra light mist coats,otherwise if you pound on too much clear at once it ends up "bleeding" the lines you just spent so much time working on.
  7. also,try not to stop in the middle of a line or you will end up getting "dots"thicker than the lines you're doing.
  8. "please remember,this is a really basic how to tutorial just for panel lining with a gundam marker."

Attachment 1773
Attachment 1774
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Damn! I wish I designed Canadian Slag

Last edited by dak; 12-14-2008 at 05:52 AM.
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