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07-22-2010, 06:15 PM
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#191
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Re: Repair Thread
Anyone have an idea on how to remove rust from plastic. I recently bought a g1 jefire and upon arrival I found all his screws and internal springs are badly corroded. I managed to get him apart but the area around the screws left rust stains/bits. I've tried scrubbing with dish soap and isopropal alcohol with little effect. I even left the plastic in the alcohol overnight but that didn't soften the rust. Any ideas?
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07-22-2010, 06:35 PM
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#192
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Location: Stratford Ontario
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Re: Repair Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malwave
o...kay.
I need someone with experience fixing Music Label Soundwave. Apparently I got one of the few with horrible QC.
Long story short, was fiddling his him one day, and when I tried to put him into tapedeck mode, his head wouldn't go down. I pushed down and all of a sudden, his head jerked downward and now won't go down in tape mode and won't spring up in robot mode.
how do I fix this? I didn't spend 80 bucks on a Soundwave to NOT have him do anything but sit in box.
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take it apart and reset it loose in the slider, should fix your problem
tekka: depending how bad it is, you might need to do the peroxide trick
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07-22-2010, 07:34 PM
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#193
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Location: calgary alberta
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Re: Repair Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekkamanraiden
Anyone have an idea on how to remove rust from plastic. I recently bought a g1 jefire and upon arrival I found all his screws and internal springs are badly corroded. I managed to get him apart but the area around the screws left rust stains/bits. I've tried scrubbing with dish soap and isopropal alcohol with little effect. I even left the plastic in the alcohol overnight but that didn't soften the rust. Any ideas?
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the only method that i've found to remove rust stains is polishing.
i use "meguires" "fine cut scratch remover.available at most automotive detailing shops.the price is a bit steep(around 12-16 bucks a bottle)but it'll last you for a few years depending on how much you use.as an added bonus,if you get a scratch on your "real" car,you have the means to fix it too
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07-22-2010, 08:20 PM
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#194
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Location: The Hammer (Hamilton)
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Re: Repair Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matrix_Holder
The legs, knee, shoulder and hip joints are all ratchet joints I think. Is that the joints that you use clear nail polish on? how do you apply it?
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Ratchet joints really? The kind that click when you move them? Could be the ratchet part is cracked...that results in less pressure being applied than should, and can create a floppy joint (at leats my G1 trypticon had that happen). Not sure how to fix that.
For balljoints typically you just apply a layer of clear nail polish or superglue to "build up" the ball, so it will be tighter in the socket. Just a little will do.
As I said, not sure if it would work with ratcheting type joints.
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07-23-2010, 11:34 PM
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#195
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Location: Burlington, ont, canada
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Re: Repair Thread
Thanks for the help Bruticus82, I appreciate it.
It's both knee joints, I think they are ratchet...they click when I bend them and I can feel the "click" too. They still ratchet but they are loose and can't sustain certain poses and falls over. Other than that he is perfect, the joints are an annoyance but doesn't ruin the figure but I would like to see if there is a way to fix it.
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07-23-2010, 11:38 PM
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#196
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Re: Repair Thread
Yeah dude, not much you can do to fix a ratchet joint, at least not quickly
Considering the whole point of the mechanism is to keep it tight, it being loose implies something is in some way broken
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07-24-2010, 01:09 AM
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#197
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Location: Burlington, ont, canada
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Re: Repair Thread
I had a method of fixing non ratcheted and non ball jointed knees/elbows/ankles etc joints, wrap sewing thread around the pin on both sides of the joint ie knee. It creates a mass that tightens the movement of the joint. I didn't think that it would work with ratchet joints because of the ratchets...I tried to wrap the thread around the pin on just the one side, the non ratcheted side. over and over again. It turns out that it worked. Springers (warbot defender) knee joints are nice and tight now. thought I'd pass along that tip... I was going to try crazy glue but on a figure this pricey it was just to scary.
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08-13-2010, 12:10 PM
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#198
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Location: The Hammer (Hamilton)
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Re: Repair Thread
G1 Red Alert, anyone out there has suggestions for removing the spoilers? I open up the metal leg, and I can see where the spoilers are connected in, but there's no screw or anything...looks almost like they were shoved in and then "melted" so they couldn't be removed.
Anyone ever removed one before?
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08-13-2010, 12:14 PM
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#199
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Re: Repair Thread
It may be complicated, take a picture. I have a feeling you'll have to use a saudering iron on those pins. Once heated they'll melt the plastic and you can yank them off.
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08-13-2010, 05:20 PM
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#200
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Location: The Hammer (Hamilton)
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Re: Repair Thread
Alright, here's the pic.
This is a picture of the back or Red Alert's leg, on the inside. Where that lighter glob is on the right, and another one kind of hidden on the left, I believe those are all that's holding the spoilers in place...I think.
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1. Combiner Wars Devastator
2. 25th Anniversary Unicron (MISB)
3. DOTM Takara Vortex (MOSC)
+ and more!
Looking to buy:
1. G1 Pretender Groundbreaker
My Feedback Thread
Avatar Image by the talented Ninjatron!
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