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Old 10-21-2022, 06:06 PM   #351
Echotransformer
Loves all things G1-ish..
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 3,128
Re: Repair Thread

You could try this:

-get a work area ready near the sink, I like to put an old towel on the counter top
-boil hot water (yes, to a complete boil)
-pour carefully over the part that needs to flex over the nub...usually around 0.5L of continuous pouring is needed to heat the part up adequately
-obviously you'll need to pour over the sink...allow the hot water to run into the sink (BUT I usually plug the sink just in case I drop the part)
-try not to pour over stickers...avoid metal as much as possible
-be VERY carefully...even if the hot water doesn't touch you, the steam can burn...wear gloves if needed
-Once you've poured the 0.5L out, quickly bring the part over to your towels and snap the part in
-check that no parts are out of position...if warped pinch back into position with your gloved hand
-allow to cool
-dry everything carefully after to avoid rust

Now this sounds very difficult...but in practice, it's shockingly easy...usually the boiling water makes the plastic JUST flexible enough to make installation much easier.

NOTE: This same technique works wonders on stress marks!
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Old 03-30-2024, 08:43 PM   #352
ManitobaMando
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Winnipeg Manitoba
Posts: 110
Re: Repair Thread

Heya folks


My TR Fort Max Cerebros arm seemed to snap off at the metal flat heat pin joint (meaning the steel pin itself snapped). It seems like an easy fox but I'm having trouble locating a replacement pin part. Is this hardware called by a particular name?
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