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07-30-2007, 01:08 PM
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#71
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
I like it, very nice. What did you use as a head? here's the difference between McFarlane and SW figures from TF's. they use a softer plastic. This softer plastic can accept certain types of paint better. and the amount of joints they have are lower than what you find in TF's. So it's just paint in the joints that's chipping? there are a few choices you have. but it still has the risk of chipping, no matter what you do. But to help prevent it, here's what you can do.
One thing is sanding down the joints. Do not do this to ball joints, but with the hinge stuff you can give them a slight sanding and what you remove in the way of plastic, should be replaced by the build up of paint.
Another thing is remove the paint completely from joint area's. this will totally prevent any wear on joints.
Dye the plastic. I don't dye my work, but there are tutorials out there to help you. but from what i've read it's not an easy process.
One type of paint that's good to use, and was actually recommended to me by a painter at Hasbro, is Car spray paint. It dries hard, and is chip resistant.
Here's some Prep tips that can help when adding the paint. clean your surface with a bit of nail polish remover. you want to try to take away that glossy surface and some of the factory paint. paint can have a hard time sticking to glossy surfaces, same with glue. So you need to roughen it up a bit so it bonds better. One word of caution, do not rub for too long or it will start to eat away at the plastic. only do it enough to remove the gloss. if you like to prime your work, especially if your painting light on dark, use a spray primer. Automotive or Krylon. And do seal your work with a clear coat of some sort after.
the only other advice I can give is let your paint dry. I know i've done this. even if it feels dry to the touch, it might not be fully cured. try to leave the part for the full dry period. 24 hrs is best. sometimes sooner. Dry to the touch lets you paint another layer, but letting it fully dry is when you can put it back together.
Paints: Model type paints (testors, model master) are best for painting details but not for larger area's. Car paints are great for the larger surfaces. Chip resistant.
DAK
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07-30-2007, 03:01 PM
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#72
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
Thanks Dak, I'll try some of those idea's when I get around to Runamuck. As for the head I just altered classic Bumblebee's head which is of course the base as well. Cut off his "ears" and added some padding around his mouth. Slid back the spoiler to the trunk and painted. I've also got the seeker bot-cons in mind and maybe a Dragstrip from a classic Mirage. Hopefully GMFan will post up his seekers when he finishes them off. At least I think it was GMFan working on them?
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08-20-2007, 01:19 PM
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#73
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Location: Making a stop at Willoughby
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
WOW ! ...didn't know we had a custom thread here...cool !
Anyhoo, some of you may have seen my work before, I also am knowledgeable in the repainting field, head mods, detailing...etc. I've been doing model cars on/off for 10 years. I'll try to help out here if I can.
One thing about nail polish remover is that it does damage plastic so I wont use it anymore. I use Isoprophynol Alcohol 70% (at any drug store) it is safe - I've soaked parts for a week at a time - no damage to the plastic whatsoever, also heard brake fluid works really well but will try it later this week.
Last edited by TTT; 08-20-2007 at 01:29 PM.
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08-20-2007, 01:29 PM
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#74
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Location: Making a stop at Willoughby
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
Any chance of a custom gallery ?.....?
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08-20-2007, 05:12 PM
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#75
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
I'm working on a gallery thing. Hopefully something
soon ish.
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08-20-2007, 06:07 PM
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#76
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Location: Making a stop at Willoughby
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
OK, so I tried brake fluid to strip paint....after an hour soaking & scrubbing w/ a old toothbrush it didn't really do much.....'cept for give me a headache.
I'm going back to iso. alch. 70% (or 90% if I can find it - no headache either !)
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08-26-2007, 12:59 PM
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#77
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Location: Making a stop at Willoughby
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
I was searchin' for some 90% Iso. Alch. at my local drug store(Shoppers Drug Mart), I wanted something stronger than 70%...had to ask for it behind the prescription counter, they only had 70% and 99%.....tried the 99% - WOW, works great !
Soaked some Alt. Ricochet parts (his head/waist/crotch can be tough) overnight, paint slid right off with no effort at all.
Plastic is completely undamaged, not even any discoloration.
I'm sold.....its 99% Iso. Alch. for me from now on !
Hope this helps.
TTT
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08-27-2007, 01:22 PM
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#78
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
Yeah, for people in quebec, the 94% Alcool from the SAQ is pretty good for this. I always tell my friends that I don't buy it to drink, but in case I need to strip paint. I'm actually pretty much serious about it.
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08-29-2007, 08:03 AM
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#79
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
Does anyone recall seeing a Alt/BT Rachet kitbashed from a KO Metals Transform white Hound? I remember seeing one but I can't find it anywhere.
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08-29-2007, 12:22 PM
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#80
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Re: DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread
I do remember seeing it.... let me find it.
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