View Full Version : Canadian Kitbashing Tutorials
This thread is designed to be a resource thread to teach different Kitbashing techniques. The tutorials are submitted by various Canadian Kitbashers, and feature step by step instructions of how to perform the task.
If you have any questions about a particular tutorial, please PM myself, the author of the Article or leave a reply in DAK's Customizing Discussion Thread (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?t=1807). If you would like to submit a tutorial, PM it to me (dak).
INDEX
TTT's Battle Damage for Dummies - Page 1, Post 2 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=35325&postcount=2), 3 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=35326&postcount=3), 4 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=35327&postcount=4), 5 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=35328&postcount=5), 6 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=35336&postcount=6)
StarFire's How to Make Basic Flames - Page 1, Post 7 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=39701&postcount=7), 8 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=39702&postcount=8)
TTT's Alternator Door Removal - Page 1, Post 9 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=65893&postcount=9)
chans formers Panel Lining 123 - Page 1, Post 10 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=97929&postcount=10)
racerguy76's Paint Stripping and Priming Tutorial - Page 2, Post 11 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=119288&postcount=11)
TTT's Spray Painting Tutorial - Page 2, Post 12 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=134314&postcount=12), 13 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=134315&postcount=13), 14 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=134316&postcount=14)
chans formers How to stiffen your loose g1 bots - Page 2, Post 15 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=134318&postcount=15)
chans formers Sun Damage Removal - Page 2, Post 16 (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showpost.php?p=134595&postcount=16)
Submitted by TheTransTorture
Battle Damage for Dummies ....like me.
DISCLAIMER:
* Before you attempt anything in this tutorial let it be known that this involves techniques that can cause severe burns as well as the use of a "dremel" power tool with cutting disc which can cut through you a lot easier than it can cut through plastic. Proper eye wear protection is essential to avoid flying bits of hot plastic in your eyes.
* Keep children AND pets away when attempting any of these techniques.
* Work in a well ventilated area as some techniques involve melting plastic - you do not want to inhale any smoke or paint/glue fumes.
* Know/learn how to use tools shown here properly before attempting any of these techniques.
* Author of the tutorial and any website it's linked to is not responsible for any damages or injuries as a result of attempting any of these techniques.
Alrighty ! Here we go...
Here is Alt. Silverstreak, he's gonna help me show you how we do things around here...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT01.jpg
2 things you'll need : a solid metal rod, I use shower curtain rods.
Bobby pin. (Guys get your gf to pick these up for you - save yourself the shame - LOL)
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT02.jpg
First were gonna create some laser wounds & small dents and fish out an eyeball...
Laser wounds: I use a (mostly)straightened metal curtain rod, I get the tip super hot almost red hot - I'll let you decide how you heat yours up, use a safe heat source ;)
Once hot apply the rod to the desired location on the figure and PUSH ! - But be careful !
Melting plastic should be displaced around the wound, pull out your rod (... never mind...) soon after, if you leave it in too long the plastic will harden and crack as you remove the rod.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT03.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT04.jpg
Dents: same thing, just heat up that rod and touch areas where a dent is needed - this work great on a corner like near the top of the head.
Eyeball removal:
I mostly use the bobby pin for this but sometimes if I'm going for a more gory look I'll use the curtain rod. Just get it red hot and PUSH !
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT05.jpg
Repeat as necessary until eye is removed...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT06.jpg
Lets get crackin on some glass shall we ?
You'll need a pin for this one, if this was an MP Prime I'd use something bigger like a boxcutter or Exacto blade.
It's almost as easy as it looks:
Start by scratching a small circle as the center point then scribe in some long outward lines from the center of the circle.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT07.jpg
Start in the center and slowly scribe your way outwards connecting the lines but try not to make them match up as you go, random pattern works best.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT08.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT09.jpg
Other cracks:
For a more simple crack just scribe in by hand - practice on old CD cases.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT10.jpg
This head light is made of very thick plastic so it's tough to work with - some are easier(Mirage) than others.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT11.jpg
Body Cracks:
I just use a boxcutter scribing in cracks on an angle, again - practice on old CD cases.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT12.jpg
Cuts & more Severe Damage:
Dremel and cutting disc will get the job done. This more than anything else shown here is what will take the most practise to perfect so practice on what you can - KO's other toys etc.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT13.jpg
Blown Off Hand:
Remove fist, cut the end of the arm off at the wrist.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT14.jpg
Cut in lines of different depths and widen the cuts where the wrist was.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT15.jpg
Try to arrange the blown off tips at different heights and sharpen them up a little with the dremel & disc.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT16.jpg
The damage is done !
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT17.jpg
OK we're ready for paint...
First thing I did here was dirty him up all over, this is done by giving small areas a good coating of flat black maybe watered down a little to get INTO all those hard to reach spots then wipe it off.
I usually do this within 1-2 square inches at a time.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT19.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT20.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT22.jpg
Notice how this really helps the overall look of the damage !
Now do that with silver over your cracked glass ! ! !
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT21.jpg
While you got the silver out start touching up all those wounds ya burned into him...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT23.jpg
And inside that arm.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT24.jpg
You can also run your brush along the leading edges to give him a weathered/scraped up look.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT25.jpg
Once everything has dried I will go over all the silver added to the wounds with a flat black wash. Done painting.
Wiring:
This is tough to explain cause I do it different every time.
This one I wedged in some metal wiring, crazy glued elec. wiring to it and added some ripped bits of tinfoil(industrial) to fill in the spaces.
I can't really plan anything until I have the arm opened up - then you gotta work with what you got. Wiring on the main body is usually attached by unscrewing parts(seat or inner grill), wedging the end of the wire under the part and screwing it back down.
One thing I ALWAYS see on battle damage figures with exposed wires is brand spankin new clean cut wires...take some needle nose pliers and get crazy, squish bits here & there - kink it, twist it... and FRAY the wires ends - make the wire casing look burnt at the end with a touch of flat black.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT44.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT43.jpg
Guess what ? - Yer done !
Thanks to all who supported and inspired me - You know who you are ! ! !
Let me know how many you ruin !
TTT
The Result:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT28.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT42.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT45.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT46.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT47.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT48.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT49.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT50.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/BDTUT51.jpg
Submitted by StarFire
How to Make Basic Flames
As the name suggests, we’re going to make a basic flame pattern. There are many different ways to do it; I’m going to show you a simple method involving a mask that can be used with an airbrush or aerosol cans. You’ll need:
*sharp scissors
* role of low-tack painters tape (green or blue); the wider the better.
* sharp blade
* pencil and white eraser
* sketch of how you want your flames to look
* patience!
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/3928/attachmentphpoo9.jpg
First, a comment about paints. Drying times and curing times are not the same thing. Paint may dry in one hour, but can take up to ten days to cure (properly harden and become fully ‘stuck’ to the substrate it’s been applied to). You need to know the dry and cure time for your paints before you attempt this. As a general rule:
Lacquers take 4-5 days to cure
Krylon takes 7 days to cure (it’s similar to a lacquer)
Oil enamels take up to 10 days to cure (quick dry enamels may cure a little faster)
I have no idea the dry or cure time on acrylics as I don’t use them. If someone knowledgeable about them wants to pm me that info, I’ll add it. After all, it’s not the tools—it’s the workmanship.
Why does this matter? Because we’re going to be taping off and burnishing a completely painted surface to make our flames, and we don’t want the paint to lift. As a former professional painter, I can tell you there’s nothing worse than having to do the job over again because you rushed your tape job. As a rule of thumb, I like to wait half the full cure time before taping. Also, you need to make sure the paint you’ll be using for your flames is compatible with the base-coat you’ve applied. Never apply acrylics on top of oils or lacquers; they simply don’t bond well. In the following project, I’ve used oil enamel for the base coat, and synthetic lacquer for the flames.
Here’s my painted wing, with some of the markings already applied.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/1676/attachment1phpoy4.jpg
Using the painters tape, lightly tape of the entire surface. You need to pull this off, so don’t press hard or burnish it. I should have used wider tape, but none of the paint stores in my area had any. That’s ok, just overlap the tape half a centimeter or so. The overlaps must be lightly burnished to prevent bleed. Burnishing in this context just means rubbing the surfaces so they have a tight bond; your thumb and thumbnail work just fine.
You should already have a sketch made with the flame pattern you want.
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7605/attachment2phpyw1.jpg
Copy the pattern onto the tape with a pencil (I’ve used pen because it photographs better, but traced my pencil marks). You can erase any mistakes with a good white eraser, so don’t be afraid to do so. Just make sure you don't lift any of your tape overlaps.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/7505/attachment3phphq9.jpg
Pull the tape off, and place it on a cutting board. Note that if you’ve used multiple layers of tape as I have, you must cut “down” the tape, so you don’t lift your overlaps.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9841/attachment5phpkd8.jpg
Carefully cut out your mask. This is the most important step in getting nice flames, so don’t rush it!!
Position your mask on your piece, and burnish the edges well.
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/972/attachment4phpra2.jpg
Then paint, using multiple light coats…I used 3 or 4 to get the colour I wanted. As soon as you’re satisfied with your paint job, pull your mask off. I wait a few hours, then ¬gently go over the flames with 5000+ grit sandpaper to minimize the paint lines at the mask edge.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/3386/attachment6phpod3.jpg
That’s it! You may need to do slight touch-up on your base coat.
You could so this several times, to create multi-colour flames, or flames with shadows (using this method means the shadow layer is the first one to paint) but you’ll have to make sure you don’t paint too heavy, or you’ll get raised paint lines, and you’ll need to use high-grit sand paper between each coat (if you do that, try to avoid metallics—they don’t sand so well).
Submitted by TheTransTorture
An Alt. door removal tutorial that will......BLOW YOUR DOORS OFF ! ! !
So I was just reading in some threads at TFW'05 about how no one could get Alt. Skid's doors off for repainting.
I thought Plowking had a trick he used on the Mazda Alt. door so without searching for the thread I just went ahead & tried what I thought he did.
I was wrong, I found an alternative that works on a few Alt. doors including the ever frustrating Scion mold...so here it is, a tutorial to walk you through the process...along with the help of "Hurtin Hound"
A super-duper detailed custom I've been working on, he helps me hold parts while i'm hitting them with hammers.(props to Plowking for nabbin this guy for me)
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT1.jpg
First thing is to find a nice sharp blade, I used an Exacto type blade.
Start by making sure the outer door is positioned all the way to the end forward or back.
Cut away a small amount of plastic in the middle of the inner door opening/slide zone, top & bottom...just a little, not the actual inner door, just the bit that hold the big pin in place.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT2.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT3.jpg
Slide the door so the big pin is over the middle area where your cuts were made.
Insert a small screwdriver as shown and give it a light pry, if it doesnt pop off reapeat the previous steps & try again.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT4.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT5.jpg
Once it's off you'll want to repeat what you just did only now to the other side to allow the door to be popped back on after painting is complete.
Again: cut away a small amount of plastic in the middle of the inner door opening/slide zone, top & bottom...just the little bit that will allow the big pin to be popped back into place.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT6.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT7.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT8.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTdoorTUT9.jpg
ENJOY ! ! !
Submitted by Chans Formers
Panel Lining 123
hi guys.i recieved a few pms asking how to do panel lining.(if this is the wrong spot to post this i totally apologize,if it needs to be moved i totally understand.)
please keep in mind this is just a basic tutorial on how to do it.theres also many ways of doing panel lining but i'm only going to describe how i do it.here goes...
wash your "donor"figure in sunlight dish soap and let him dry completely.(the last thing you want is greasy prints or mold release agents in the cracks that you want to line)
most figures have recessed lines on it somewhere and thats where you want to run the gundam marker through.start from one end of the recessed area and go in one direction only.you can go back on the same line area again but usually it ends up thickening the line.
if and when you skip/jump out of the line,have a small rag or paper towel nearby thats slightly damp.if you have to fix a mistake,always rub/wipe off "against"the line.if not,you'll end up wiping out more of the paint thats in the line,which usually results in a big black smudge.worst case scenario,use the rag and some isopropyl alcohol and wipe the whole area clean and start again.
as you do the lining,you should start to feel how heavy or light you want to press down on the marker.the lighter you press,the lighter of a line you get and vice versa.
theres also a happy medium between too little and too much panel lining.too much and it looks "cluttered".to little and it will look like your bots missing something.ive included pics of 2 mcdonalds bb's,one thats been lined and one without.ultimately in the end,if you're happy with the results than thats all that matters.(different folks,different strokes)
i found that with the fine tipped gundam markers you can clear coat the bot after but make sure you apply the clear in ultra light mist coats,otherwise if you pound on too much clear at once it ends up "bleeding" the lines you just spent so much time working on.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1007.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1008-2.jpg
also,try not to stop in the middle of a line or you will end up getting "dots"thicker than the lines you're doing.
"please remember,this is a really basic how to tutorial just for panel lining with a gundam marker.":)
1773
1774
Submitted by racerguy76
Paint Stripping and Priming Tutorial
Star with seperating the body parts into as many pieces as you can, the more you disaasemble the robot the better the finnish will be. Here I am using a TFA Jazz head. Once detached from the body the eyes were held in with a single screw.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0282.jpg
Once removed I soak the head in Isopropyl rubbing Alcohol for about an hour. The longer you saok it the easier the paint is to get off, but the plastic seems to get soft and mushy if left too long.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0284.jpg
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0285.jpg
My tools are an old toothbrush a dentists pick and a razor blade. Be careful kiddies.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0288.jpg
First I use the toothbrush to clean as much of the paint as possible, the razor and the pick are for cleaning up grooves and the paint that just won't seem to come off with the brush. The razor should be used with extreme caution. Alwasys cut away from yourself and try not to score or scratch the plastic as much as possible.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0291.jpg
Once the part looks faily clean I soak it again for 15 to 20 minutes.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0293.jpg
Then clean it again with the toothbrush and rub it down with paper towel.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0294.jpg
Once we have secured the head to a painting hook(xmas ornament hanger) it is ready for primer.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0296.jpg
I used a brush and testors flat grey for primer. I find it covers nice and can be applied thin enough to not loose to much detail.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0298.jpg
Using masking tape to keep areas not needing paint clean works great but it somewhat time consuming. If using an airbrush for the final job a good mask is essential. Again the better you prep the part before painting the better the final product will turn out.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0299.jpg
I try and do as many pieces at once to keep my work consistent. This is twice as true if mixing custom colors.
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/racerguy76/SANY0301.jpg
Submitted by TTT
Spray Painting Tutorial
This tutorial is for basic spray paint techniques using an auto primer and hobby/hardware enamels - just the basics.
These techniques may not work for Krylon "Fusion" paints, if you choose Krylon Fusion paints read/follow the label and use accordingly.
Start with safety, wear some form of protection.Respirator, gloves(long sleeve shirt).
Those little cup masks are not designed for this, read the label and/or ask questions at a hardware section /store.
Where are you going to paint ?
This is best done outdoors away from homes, family members & pets.
You'll need a clean area free of dust.
Little to no wind.
A place to hang dry parts.
What's the weather like ?
Outdoor humidity levels must be low or spray paint will not apply properly.
Best results will be on a warm/hot, dry day. The less wind the better.
If it's raining don't bother...
Taking the figure apart...
Areas that rub will need to be sanded.
For spray paint I would take these apart and paint accordingly.
This can normally be done with just a screwdriver, keep track of all screws.
Put them back where they belong as you go, see pic.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT002.jpg
If you skip this and just bag them all...good luck !!!
Separate parts that are not being painted and parts that are being painted.
Very small parts should all be kept in a bag that locks with a zipthingy-majiggee.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT001.jpg
Factory paint removal...
Factory paint applications normally have a bad reaction to spray paint, removal is highly suggested.
I give my parts needing to be stripped a bath in 99% rubbing alcohol(this will require testing on parts before heavily applied and may ruin clear parts on some figures).
After soaking under supervision for an hour or 2 I get to work with an old tooth brush(and gloves).
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT003.jpg
Some parts may need longer soak times or more time with the brush.
All factory paint should be removed before proceeding.
At this point the parts that are getting painted must be thoroughly cleaned before any paint is applied.
Most agree that a hot/warm soapy bath followed by a thorough rinse and dry time is all that is needed.
Some people use paint thinner or rubbing alcohol, these 2 methods will require testing on parts before heavily applied and may ruin clear parts on some figures.
The parts are now clean so if you handle them you'll get them all oily again, I use those blue rubber gloves when handling parts at this point.(and as much as possible until the figure is complete)
Now separate parts that need masking and parts that don't.
Most generic masking tapes are OK for this but higher quality & priced ones can be found at hobby shops.
I don't pull pins, I mask.
Here's a little trick for those tricky Alt shoulders...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT004.jpg
For wheels I go all the way and mask the back as well so no spray comes through to the front.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT005.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT006.jpg
Large posts that won't be seen are best left unpainted.
The layers of paint changes that size of joing parts like these and you might not be able to put it back together if painted.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT007.jpg
If you do paint them by accident try scraping off as much as possible.
I tie a wire somewhere on all the parts that are getting spray paint.
This helps with handling and drying.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT008.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT009.jpg
Here are some parts all ready to go for paint.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT010.jpg
Read the directions on your spray can.
You can even put your cans in a shallow cake pan of warm water to warm the paint(some people do this every time).
I usually shake the can for about 2 minutes before spraying.
Have a drying rack set up, I use this old shelf with strips of packing tape waiting ready to go.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT011.jpg
Before you start...
Do a few test sprays to see how the spray reacts, make sure it doesn't spit paint in big drops.
This should also give you an idea of how/where(and if any) the wind is blowing.
The real trick to spray paint is technique, thin coats and heavy patients are key.
Your spray stroke should always start away from the target and spray evenly over desired area but keep the spray going until after you have cleared the target.
Never start or stop spraying directly at your target.
The speed of your stroke will depend on how fast the can sprays and what part of the process you are at, in the beginning you will want somewhat fast strokes as first coats should not cover the target, only a light mist is necessary.
This can be repeated every 15 minutes or so(read directions on can for exact times).
Each piece sprayed gets the wire handle secured in the packing tape strips in between coats.
We'll start with a few thin primer coats.
After several mist coats of primer and 24 hour dry time you have complete coverage shown here.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT012.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT013.jpg
Note the thickness, no details were lost.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT014.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT015.jpg
I try to keep these parts in a sealed container so they remain clean from now until the painting process starts.
First paint applications should be similar to the first primer apps. start with mist coats, never start or stop spraying directly at your target.
Your first mist coat should look like this...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT016.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT017.jpg
4-6 more mist coats should get you complete coverage.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT018.jpg
At this point you can either:
A) You can go further and improve the the smoothness of the paint finish.
Or
B) Finish up here and do a thicker gloss coat as your final coat.
If you choose A).....
Let the parts dry for at least 3 days or more.
You will need 1000 grit sandpaper, this is called "wet sanding".
Get the 1000 g. paper soaking wet with water and keep it wet, you want to sand the parts evenly but you do not want to sand through the paint(or primer!) so it's better to think of it as "scuffing the paint" not sanding, use very little effort.
Once you have scuffed the paint evenly it will have a dull flat look to it.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT019.jpg
Give the parts a rinse and let them dry thoroughly...then see step B) below(final gloss coat).
You can even repeat this process for an even smoother paint finish.
The sky is the limit, you can even buy a polishing kit that scuffs the paint and polishes in a step by step process with different grit pads.(ask your hobby shop)
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT020.jpg
If you choose B).....
Do 1- 3 final gloss coats, a gloss coat is similar to the mist coat only it's a little slower and may an inch or 2 closer to the target.
You may want to repeat a gloss coat within 20 - 30 minutes but be careful, don't over do it.
Let the parts hang dry for at least 24 hours before you touch them.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT022.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT023.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT024.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT021.jpg
Be very gentle with the pieces, don't test to see if you can smudge the paint with your finger...you probably will.
Remove masking tape after 24 hours.
See how masking connecting pegs will eliminate paint wear...
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT025.jpg
Always pull masking tape away from the paint on masked lines.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT026.jpg
Over sprayed areas like inside Alt. arms I try to hide & detail.
First sand inside arms to prevent paint rub.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT027.jpg
You can see the cleanly sanded area that would normally rub causing paint loss.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT028.jpg
Paint insides black & reassemble arm.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT029.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/TheTransTorture/ALTTUT030.jpg
Let parts cure for a week before reassembly.
Submitted by chans formers
How to stiffen your loose g1 bots
This is a quick tutorial on how to “stiffen”the loose joints on your bots in just a few easy steps.for this one I’m using a really loose g1 action master mainframe.poor bot cant even stand up on his own feet:p(I chose him cause he’s got really basic joints.)
1. Clean your bot with sunlight dishsoap(an old toothbrush works really nice here)
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2564&d=1241319237
2. Once dry,disassemble your bot.(make sure to keep track of which screws go where)
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2565&d=1241319237
3. Once his arms are off,clean the post/connectors again with a damp rag,make sure its dry,then proceed to put a thin coat of clear polish on them,covering the entire post.
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2566&d=1241319237
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2567&d=1241319237
4. There’s a slot on the upper thigh inner halves which the ball jointed crotch t-bar slots into.thats where you wanna pound on the clear but not so much that it drips down the side.
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2568&d=1241319237
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2570&d=1241319237
5. On the lower leg halves,one side of each feet has a post which actually connects it to his “kneecaps”.these posts are where you wanna hit with a thin coat of clearcoat.
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2569&d=1241319237
6. Let everything dry for about an hour or so depending on how thick you put the clearcoat.
7. Reassemble and enjoy your newly refurbished bot.
http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/attachment.php?attachmentid=2571&d=1241319237
The only tools needed for this was sunlight dishsoap,toothbrush,small Philips screw driver and a tiny bottle of nailpolish/clearcoat.the last pic shows how now when he’s put on top of the nail polish bottle,his arms now stay up and his knee’s don’t buckle.this can also be used for many other lines besides g1.try it for your beastwars,beastmachines,animated,basically if it has ball joints or posts,try it.
(disclaimer=make sure you double check with wifey before you go raiding her makeup kit for new resources:p)
Submitted by chans formers
Sun Damage Removal
a while back,there was a thread posted here about using hydrogen peroxide to reverse the sundamage in g1 figs.for the past 2 weeks I’ve tried out this method and this is the results.i tried both natural sunlight and artificial uv light from a lamp.
Here’s a list of all that was required
· 3 bottles of 3% 10 volume hydrogen peroxide usp(2$each)
· 2 bottles of 6% 20 volume hydrogen peroxide(4$each)
· Glass jar (3$)
· Halogen lamp from walmart(15$)
· 1 pair of plastic chopsticks(no,not kidding;p)
· A bunch of sunfaded sacrifices
The step by step of how to do it yourself the easiest way is
1. thoroughly wash your bot(a tooth brush and sunlight dishsoap works real well to get all the nooks and cranny’s)
2. once your bot is dried off a bit(not dripping water)go ahead and disassemble him.(this will help him fit better into the glass jar)
3. take your hydro perox and start filling the glass jar,but only about 5/8ths full.
4. Start throwing your bot parts into the jar.(now you’ll know why you only filled it up 5/8ths,I learned the hard way and ended up wiping up a lot of peroxide;( )
5. Once the lid is on,put the jar outside where it’ll probably be in the sun all day.
6. As time goes by(every 40-50 min)check on the jar,open it up,use the chopsticks to stir/move the parts around and to dissapate the tiny bubbles that accumulated. if you don’t,everything will keep floating in one giant mass at the top of the jar.what ever is in the middle of that mass will not get the needed uv rays.
7. Once you’re satisfied with the color,take your chopsticks and start plucking those pieces out of the solution.
8. I like to drop them into a bowl of soapy water,then again with the toothbrush.
9. Reassemble bot once dry(this would be a good time to replace the screws if you have new ones)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1411.jpg
this is the 15$ walmart halogen lamp with the "uv filter" glass removed(faction emblems not included)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1410.jpg
the 3$ loonie store glass jar i use)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1383.jpg
g1 hungurr in a warm bath on the front steps.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1412.jpg
when the sun goes down,have no fear,the 15$ lamp is here.(make sure to stir more often when using the lamp!!!!!)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1396.jpg
before pic.notice how browned the tank is,and on fixit,you can totally tell where a price sticker was on his van roof.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1399.jpg
after.almost all sundamage gone.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1382.jpg
g1 hungurr before.extreme sunfading.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1404.jpg
after.all sun fading gone!!(remember how i said to keep moving your parts in the jar more often when using the lamp?look at hungurr's purple chest ares,that's what happens when you dont)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1393.jpg
before,g1 pounce,heavily sundamaged.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1409.jpg
after.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1392.jpg
before,g1 micromaster combiner transport.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj172/chansformers/1394.jpg
after,shown with undipped other half.
A few things I noticed while trying this out is
· Patience is number one.
· If there’s a sticker on the plastic,the uv will not penetrate the plastic behind it.(unless its clear/transparent like the g1 pretenders)
· Never use clear plastic containers(the first jar I had was plastic and it ended up somehow bubbling out the bottom of the jar)always glass only.
· Certain stickers get a “hazing” sheen to them,while others remain untouched.
have fun and play safe!!
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