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View Full Version : Repaints & Minor Mods Finally made a TF Con Toxin!!!


Echotransformer
02-21-2012, 09:52 PM
I started with a rather worn Chromedome. Some kid must have had so much fun with this thing, the wheels were actually worn from all the rolling. Such a great thing to breath new life into this old toy....

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/336/toxin1.png



The canopy was really scratched:

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/7702/toxin2.png



I gave it the old shinaroo--1500-grit wet sand, then polish, then scratch remover, then polish, then scratch remover. Not perfect, but better:

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/515/toxin3.png



I did a fairly major disassembly, including pins. I sanded all the scuffs smooth as well...the hands and feet were beat up. Here's the parts ready for paint:

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1871/toxin4.png



Here's the green part that covers the tech specs prior to assembly. Hot water was used to both remove and reset the pins:

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2203/toxin5.png

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1732/toxin6.png


Final pics after the jump....

Echotransformer
02-21-2012, 09:53 PM
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2671/toxin9.png

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1576/toxin7.png

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6050/toxin8.png

Green from some Reprolabels offcuts were used for the tech specs rollers...


http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4707/toxin10.png

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1148/toxin14.png

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/7936/toxin12.png

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/451/toxin11.png

vohkuhl
02-21-2012, 10:33 PM
Awesome job, I love how you have the comic images and the figure very accurate in my opinion!

Bruticus82
02-21-2012, 10:35 PM
Fantastic. I picked up a cheap junker Chromedome as well with the intention to do this...eventually.

I'll use your pics as inspiration.

Any paint suggestions for those of us doing our own?

jourdo
02-21-2012, 10:59 PM
Hot water was used to both remove and reset the pins?

Tell me more of this technique. I still do the soldering iron trick and have had the occasional slip... err, unintentional battle damage as a result.

Great job on Toxin by the way.

GMfan
02-21-2012, 11:07 PM
I want it

Echotransformer
02-21-2012, 11:49 PM
Fantastic. I picked up a cheap junker Chromedome as well with the intention to do this...eventually.

I'll use your pics as inspiration.

Any paint suggestions for those of us doing our own?

Glad I can help!

All parts were well sanded and primed using typical off the shelf auto-primer, two coats...

Blue is: Krylon Interior/Exterior "Regal Blue" 41901
Grey is: Tremclad "Light Grey Gloss" (it's the right color, but the paint took forever to dry and was perhaps a bit thick...I do; however suggest a very light grey instead of white for Toxin)
Green is: Rust-Oleum Specialty Flourescent, "Bright Neon Green"...it's just a little more green than Toxin's eyes, but dries to a nice satin finish with some depth.

Hot water was used to both remove and reset the pins?

Tell me more of this technique. I still do the soldering iron trick and have had the occasional slip... err, unintentional battle damage as a result.

Great job on Toxin by the way.

The technique is simply boil water in a kettle, hold the part(s) over the kitchen sink (perhaps with pliers--don't burn your fingers like I did, lolzzz :siren:) and pour water over the plastic where the pin is being removed, especially at the barbed end. Push using an awl, or small flat-head screwdriver--make sure you push opposite the barbed end so it exits the part first or you'll be pulling the barbs thru the entire length of the channel and end up with a huge mess.

To reset, simply do the same in reverse--boil water, pour over the parts, (you won't need to do the pin...it's usually easier if it's cold) then push the pin back in with the barb being the last part going into the plastic.

You may have to do this process twice if the parts cool while you push. Some force is still needed but nothing any of us couldn't do without a little elbow grease, and thanks to the heat it's WAY easier and best of all--extremely unlikely to damage your parts.

I've never damaged a TF using boiling water yet--you just have to make sure they are dried so screws don't rust.

--Echo

Pascal
02-22-2012, 01:04 AM
Kickass repaint.

brr-icy
02-22-2012, 01:43 AM
that loos awesome, i have to do this for my toxin someday

QuadESL63
02-22-2012, 09:44 PM
The technique is simply boil water in a kettle, hold the part(s) over the kitchen sink (perhaps with pliers--don't burn your fingers like I did, lolzzz :siren:) and pour water over the plastic where the pin is being removed, especially at the barbed end. Push using an awl, or small flat-head screwdriver--make sure you push opposite the barbed end so it exits the part first or you'll be pulling the barbs thru the entire length of the channel and end up with a huge mess.

To reset, simply do the same in reverse--boil water, pour over the parts, (you won't need to do the pin...it's usually easier if it's cold) then push the pin back in with the barb being the last part going into the plastic.

You may have to do this process twice if the parts cool while you push. Some force is still needed but nothing any of us couldn't do without a little elbow grease, and thanks to the heat it's WAY easier and best of all--extremely unlikely to damage your parts.

I've never damaged a TF using boiling water yet--you just have to make sure they are dried so screws don't rust.

--Echo

Thanks for the tip! I know what to do with mine :D

Plainsjumper
02-22-2012, 09:47 PM
Very nice paint job. :)

Trying pin removal still makes me nervous... but this gave me the idea that I can practice it on whatever junker figures I find 2nd hand.

Robimus
02-22-2012, 09:47 PM
Thats brilliant! Its the perfect G1 Toxin.

Stapler
02-22-2012, 10:07 PM
That looks really slick, bud! He turned out great. :)

Echotransformer
02-23-2012, 06:31 PM
Thanks for the compliments everyone...this is actually a really easy repaint for anyone looking to give it a try...easy to find a junker Chromedome, easy to diassemble, simple color scheme with limited masking.

All it needs is good preparation (sanding, cleaning) and the correct choice of paint and boom! You'll have this uber cool character immotalized!

Bruticus82
02-23-2012, 10:24 PM
Thanks for the compliments everyone...this is actually a really easy repaint for anyone looking to give it a try...easy to find a junker Chromedome, easy to diassemble, simple color scheme with limited masking.

All it needs is good preparation (sanding, cleaning) and the correct choice of paint and boom! You'll have this uber cool character immotalized!

Any parts in particular we should pay attention to sanding? I mean I know you were partially sanding to get out scratches and such...but are there are rubbing issues? I was looking at the figure the other day and thought maybe the feet/ankles...but other than that it seems to have few rubbing issues.

chans formers
02-25-2012, 11:45 AM
that turned out great!!
of course you know,now that you did something that looks this well,people will be expecting your "A"-game at tfcon:D:canada:

thanks for sharing the idea of using hot water for the pins too;).
like jourdo said,it's pretty easy to slip with a soldering iron and have unintentional battle damage.

Echotransformer
02-25-2012, 12:58 PM
Any parts in particular we should pay attention to sanding? I mean I know you were partially sanding to get out scratches and such...but are there are rubbing issues? I was looking at the figure the other day and thought maybe the feet/ankles...but other than that it seems to have few rubbing issues.

Yep, feet/ankles (mine are a bit scratched)...also the arms will scratch along the side of the body, but good news is you can just undertighten the shoulder screws and they'll work perfectly.

Lastly the entire cockpit will scratch between the legs, so sand the sides well and pull the legs apart during transformation and you shouldn't have any issues.