Customizing Q&A Thread

[Nemesis Predaking]

Anyone ever used Mighty Putty on a custom? Can you paint over it? And whats a good glue to use? :)

Thanks


CJ

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm................. :p


CJ

I have, on a few of my projects, you can paint over it just fine.
I only use it for things that Gamesworkshop Green stuff does not fry fast enough to hold in place.


Alrighty, Im trying to remove paint with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, the parts have been sitting in a tub of Isopropyl Alcohol for almost 24hrs, and its not coming off. :( Any other ways of removing paint. (no counting sanding)


CJ

If 99% ain't taking it off with scrubbing. I doubt it will come off. You should be safe to paint over it, if thats the case.

[dak]

Anyone ever used Mighty Putty on a custom? Can you paint over it? And whats a good glue to use? :)

Thanks


CJ

I use it all the time. excellent for filling medium sized gaps and sculpting parts. I use Bondo for large gaps and hobby filler for small ones. Mighty Putty is also called "Plumbers Putty", but in a blue color instead of green.

[brr-icy]

not very long, i would have it on the rag and wipe it over, and don't do anywhere close to joints, GMFan will tell you it weakens the plastic

[Terminal Hipster]

I've got a question I'm hoping someone can answer, regarding stripping paint from softer plastics. For a custom I'm working on right now, I need to strip all of the paint off of Classics Sunstreaker's roof/windshield. I've already managed to strip the paint off the rest of the figure using Tamiya acrylic thinner and an old toothbrush, and it did the job fairly easily, but for whatever reason it's taking forever to get the paint off the soft plastic surfaces.

I've heard nail polish remover is good for stripping paint off of TFs, but I've also heard it can dicsolour or even warp clear and soft plastics, which I'd like to avoid for obvious reasons. I was hoping someone here could clue me in to a better way of doing this?

[TTT]

WELCOME !!!

I would just give the area a good cleaning & paint away :D
Like Alt Grimlock's roof, primed & spray painted it many a time :D

EDIT* But anywhere else I would strip it.

[Terminal Hipster]

Thanks, but what I actually need to do is remove the black paint from the inside of the windshield so I can paint the inside with a Tamiya Clear Acrylic colour. I guess I should've been more specific whan I posted my question. The acrylic thinner I'd been using was working, but painfully slowly.

In a moment of impatience over the weekend, I caved and tried using nail polish remover... BIG MISTAKE, as I figured it would be going in. It stripped the remainder of the black paint, but it did leave the clear plastic looking frosted where I (gently) worked it away using a q-tip.

I think I've got two options now - use some wet sanding films to smooth and buff out the frosted area on the inside of the "glass" or just paint the colour I want on the outside. Or I guess I could always sacrifice another Sunstreaker to the project... :P

Oh, and thanks for the welcome! :)

[Foxw]

yeah NPR will frost the traslucent plastic. actually ANYTHING that will remove paint Will frost it if applied to much. though 99% alchol takes much more contact, just alot more scrubbing but it is easier on the plastic

[Wodicus]

I have been thinking of repainting a spare Universe/Classics Ironhide. What is the best way to go about it? disassembling the figure first then paint? or Just paint with out disassembling?

Also, I like to use warhammer paints. Should I bother putting a layer of primer over the toy before painting? Or is that a bad idea?

Thanks

[dak]

I guess it depends on how much and what you want to paint on the figure. If you're painting the entire thing, it might be a good idea to separate as many pieces as possible, and then paint. But if you're just touching certain area's, then you might not need to worry about it.

If you're putting a lighter color over a darker one, a primer is a good idea so you get that true color. Games workshop paints are pretty good for covering without a primer layer, my only issue with them is they don't hold to plastic too well. I use GW paints for accents rather than whole paint coats "most of the time".

[CyberMnky]

I'm looking to replace the head on my Alternity Megs, I don't care about the engine cover plate thingy, but I was hoping to find something more Beast Megs looking to match the Reprolabel set I got him... Any suggestions?

[prime13]

Hello. I am looking for good places to buy styrene and a good bonding adhesive and Primer.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[chans formers]

I'm looking to replace the head on my Alternity Megs, I don't care about the engine cover plate thingy, but I was hoping to find something more Beast Megs looking to match the Reprolabel set I got him... Any suggestions?
have you tried looking at cybertron deluxe beast megatron?i think his head would fit pretty good with a bit of shaving here and there and the face/likeness is there already;)

[CyberMnky]

have you tried looking at cybertron deluxe beast megatron?i think his head would fit pretty good with a bit of shaving here and there and the face/likeness is there already;)

Thanks for the suggestion, Thanks to Nocturn already getting one hooked up.

[dak]

Hello. I am looking for good places to buy styrene and a good bonding adhesive and Primer.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

not sure what's out where you live, but a hobby store for styrene and brush paints, Canadian tire for sprays and adhesives.

[SamiWCP]

The latest custom I'll be doing for someone is a Ttransmetal 2 Tigerhawk..This guy doesn't look like he's gonna be a lot of fun to take apart..But anyways, the guy wants the parts of the figure that are blue chrome to be painted gold...When repainting a figure--is chromed paint an issue? Does it take to spray paints as well as anything else or should I strip it? And if so, how do you go about removing chromed or metallic paints?

[Malwave]

well that depends on what paint you use.

For Anubus' car body I used this:
http://www.prop-shop.com/g/t/tamx12.jpg

It does the job of looking like actual gold, just don't use enamel sealer on it; the gold gets defused slightly.

This is about all I can suggest as I'm not an expert on chrome paint

[chans formers]

The latest custom I'll be doing for someone is a Ttransmetal 2 Tigerhawk..This guy doesn't look like he's gonna be a lot of fun to take apart..But anyways, the guy wants the parts of the figure that are blue chrome to be painted gold...When repainting a figure--is chromed paint an issue? Does it take to spray paints as well as anything else or should I strip it? And if so, how do you go about removing chromed or metallic paints?
that vacuum metallized coating on him(met. blue parts) is a total bit#h to try spraying.it has a tendency to "spider crack/vein the minute you hit it with any kind of enamel,be it base,primer or clear.if there's any kind of cracks in the "metallized" surface,the reducers in the paint itself will seep underneath the metalized parts and pretty much ruin your new coat of paint.even if you were lucky enough to get a nice coat to stick to it,then you have to worry about the metallized coating itself flaking of which is unfortunately widespread among the beastwars/beastmachines figs.the best bet is to use a fine/semi coarse wire brush and strip it all off,then you shouldn't have any adhesion problems with your new paint.(i only know this because i repainted beastmachines ultra jetstorm 3 times total to make the botcon version.the first 2 times there was alot of cursing going on in both chinese and vietnamese,till i stripped off all the vacuum metalized coatings the third time:()

[Malwave]

oh removing...


*facepalms* -_-; gotta read the whole topic before I reply

[TTT]

The latest custom I'll be doing for someone is a Ttransmetal 2 Tigerhawk..This guy doesn't look like he's gonna be a lot of fun to take apart..But anyways, the guy wants the parts of the figure that are blue chrome to be painted gold...When repainting a figure--is chromed paint an issue? Does it take to spray paints as well as anything else or should I strip it? And if so, how do you go about removing chromed or metallic paints?

Strip off the chrome first, light sanding(nail file) and rubbing alc. to assist in recessed areas works great for me.(more sanding than anything else)

[SamiWCP]

And for the first time I have to admit failure. While my heart really wasn't into doing repaints again..And I should have researched who this figure was before I agreed to it, and noticed all that vacuum sealed chrome and metallic paints etc..It was just too much to try and remove it..not to mention that silly figure is nothing but frikking spring loaded parts and pins etc..ugh. Headache. I've never failed at a repaint before..but this time I have to call it. Blah. Anyone have a spare Tigerhawk body for sale?
http://www.samicam.com/pics/0129001415.jpg

[tusko]

No idea what I'm doing.... but could you not soak it in a strong acid to eat off the vacuum plated metal and leave the plastic behind? Its probably Cr or Zn so would not a Hydrochloric or Nitric acid bath clean it up nice? Just be careful as the acid will heat up as it reacts. Don't melt the plastic or injure yourself.

[SamiWCP]

I couldn't even begin to answer that Tusko..Chemistry was never my thing..

[Shepp]

Anyone ever used Mighty Putty on a custom? Can you paint over it? And whats a good glue to use? :)

Thanks


CJ



I'd be a little reluctant to use that Mighty Putty stuff, or at least to touch it with your bare hands and handle it without a mask.

That stuff looks, feels, and smells the same as some industrial putty I've worked with, and the MSDS sheets on that stuff had some interesting details. Like "Dispose of clothing in accordance with hazardous materials after handling". Not wash, but dispose.

The sheets also said to wear protective gloves to even handle the container (which was sealed inside another airtight container). And to wear a carbon filter mask and splash goggles. If it came into contact with skin, even indirect contact from surfaces or clothing, the area would need to be scrubbed down thoroughly for like 20 minutes.

Now Mighty Putty may not be the exact same stuff, since that putty I was using was highly specialized and used to seal explosion and spark proof mining control equipment. But the stuff looks, smells, and feels more or less the same.

I would advise using caution.

[Nerroth]

If anyone here has both Classics Grimlock and Universe 2.0 Dinobot, I was wondering:

Are the two moulds' heads similar in size?


(I was curious as to whether or not the Classics head would be useful if trying to turn Dinobot into Beast-era Grimlock, or if some other head was better... or, indeed, if a new head altogether would be needed.)

[Ultra Maverick]

^ I've had the exact same idea,
I never actually gave it a try but I believe the classics Grimlock head is a good deal thicker than Dinobot's

[Nerroth]

That could be a problem.


Short of bugging Hasbro/Fun Pub/someone to make a real one, what Grimlock head might do?

[Scrapper6]

I have a question to put to all you customizers out there... Have you heard of anybody making limited runs of Energon Stars for Energon Transformers?

I ask because to me giving the Energon Stars to the Autobots/Decepticons kind of makes me dissapointed because it means the Terrorcons/Omnicons no longer have their Energon Stars to call upon for battle.

I also ask because I'm curious if it might be a project worth investing in. (Doubtful I could invest anything into it at this moment in my life, but perhaps for future considerations.)

Also... Has anyone ever taken apart a Cruellock or Doom-Lock to repaint/customze? I'm not sure where to even start on that guy, he only seems to have one screw and the rest are these odd metal pins. Assistance would be appreciated.

I have it in my head to take either a Junker Cruellock or Doom-Lock and repaint it into a different character. Then I'd deck him out weapon wise with the spare Energon Sword from Galvatron General.

I'm just not too sure yet on who to make, what paint scheme would go good with the mold/transparent purple bits from Galvatron General and also how to go about making matching transparent claws and feet so that he'll be all one transparent color.

I'm not going to jump into this without doing a lot of research before I start. And where better to learn than by asking people who've customized plenty in the past.

How hard is it casting a mold to make those claws and that? How expensive will it be? How much collateral will I need to start saving up in order to tackle this at some future date? It can't be cheap casting a one off production run of a transparent claw or foot.

Should I quit before I even get started or try and stick with the determination of going through on this?

I doubt it'll be too difficult to find a spare Cruellock or Doom-Lock to use if I just keep hunting.

If this works out maybe I can think about making a special Insecticon to store Nightscream Reverse's weapons and Energon Star when he's not using them. Although that one probably only needs a repaint... Maybe I should start with the simple repainting of an Insecticon first and work my way up to the Doom-Lock/Cruellock.

Any wisdom you can share will be most welcome. :D

[CyberMnky]

I have a question to put to all you customizers out there... Have you heard of anybody making limited runs of Energon Stars for Energon Transformers?

I ask because to me giving the Energon Stars to the Autobots/Decepticons kind of makes me dissapointed because it means the Terrorcons/Omnicons no longer have their Energon Stars to call upon for battle.

I also ask because I'm curious if it might be a project worth investing in. (Doubtful I could invest anything into it at this moment in my life, but perhaps for future considerations.)

Also... Has anyone ever taken apart a Cruellock or Doom-Lock to repaint/customze? I'm not sure where to even start on that guy, he only seems to have one screw and the rest are these odd metal pins. Assistance would be appreciated.

I have it in my head to take either a Junker Cruellock or Doom-Lock and repaint it into a different character. Then I'd deck him out weapon wise with the spare Energon Sword from Galvatron General.

I'm just not too sure yet on who to make, what paint scheme would go good with the mold/transparent purple bits from Galvatron General and also how to go about making matching transparent claws and feet so that he'll be all one transparent color.

I'm not going to jump into this without doing a lot of research before I start. And where better to learn than by asking people who've customized plenty in the past.

How hard is it casting a mold to make those claws and that? How expensive will it be? How much collateral will I need to start saving up in order to tackle this at some future date? It can't be cheap casting a one off production run of a transparent claw or foot.

Should I quit before I even get started or try and stick with the determination of going through on this?

I doubt it'll be too difficult to find a spare Cruellock or Doom-Lock to use if I just keep hunting.

If this works out maybe I can think about making a special Insecticon to store Nightscream Reverse's weapons and Energon Star when he's not using them. Although that one probably only needs a repaint... Maybe I should start with the simple repainting of an Insecticon first and work my way up to the Doom-Lock/Cruellock.

Any wisdom you can share will be most welcome. :D

Darkov on TFW2005 makes energon stars in a variety of colours... along with several energon weapons as well. You may want to check him out.

[CyberMnky]

How would I remove the door panels and the exhaust mounts from said panels off of Animated Jazz? Im thinking i should be able to just heat it up and pull it off but wanted to ask before I broke the figure...
5363

[chans formers]

How would I remove the door panels and the exhaust mounts from said panels off of Animated Jazz? Im thinking i should be able to just heat it up and pull it off but wanted to ask before I broke the figure...
5363soldering iron. heat up the pin and pull:)

[Malwave]

Okay I got one for everyone...how would I go about making an extremely strong leg sliding unit, like on MP Prime?

[GMfan]

Take the one off of a Masterpiece Prime

[Malwave]

Take the one off of a Masterpiece Prime

I used MP Prime as an example Chris XD

I need to know how to make ones for a deluxe class-sized figure :)

[chans formers]

jack'em from a deluxe fig:)
the robot masters prime is pretty much a deluxe.

[GMfan]

Could also use the Classics Seekers mold legs....RID Spychangers....

[Vakamadisk]

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me with the installation of the longer stacks into the latest reissue of Generation one Optimus Prime. I've disassembled one arm, but now I don't know how to put it back together. Would anyone have a diagram showing how the parts go back together? Thanks.

[joshimus]

Slowly take apart the other arm and maybe take pics as you do it. Then reverse engineer it back together.

[Vakamadisk]

Slowly take apart the other arm and maybe take pics as you do it. Then reverse engineer it back together.

Thank you so much. I actually panicked when the first arm literally exploded. I slowly took the other arm apart, and then I analyzed the scheme of small parts inside it until I memorized the order. Finally, I reassembled the arms with the new (longer) smokestacks installed. Now 25th anniversary Optimus has his dignity back, and we can call him a true tractor trailer. :D Once again, thank you for the advice; it really helped to calm me down as I worked.
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6039/1006306k.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/9100/1006304.jpg

[Scrapper6]

http://johnny216.deviantart.com/art/Ecto-1-23027323

Ok, this looks awesome. I was thinking of re-painting a Cybertron Red Alert into the Ecto-1, this artwork has truly inspired me to give it a try when I can find a spare Red Alert mold to use cheap.

What would be the best materials to use. First for the paint, second for the extra acessories and third... Anybody know how to make stickers of the Ghostbusters emblem to put on him when he's done? Is there another TF who's head is small enough and a closer match to the artwork? I've never made anything before, but I really, really want to give it a try.

I wonder, would the new 6' Matty GB figures accessories be to scale with the Red Alert mold? Course they're too expensive to buy one of let alone doubles for extra accessories for kitbashing. *SIGH*

[chans formers]

^cool concept!!^

head=try classics jetfire,without the helmet.
accessories= try value village,you never know what you'll find,and if you mess up,it only cost you a few cents anyways;)
sand paper/scotch brite= if you sand it and give the paint something to bite onto,you'll have less chances of the paint chipping/cracking/peeling off.
paint=totally your preference.
acrylic=less fumes,quick drying,water clean up,not as durable as enamel until it's "fully" cured.(just make sure to clear coat)

enamel=longer dry time,more time to "smooth it out",thinner clean up,waaaay more fumes,higher risk of paint "reacting/fisheyeing".again,make sure to clearcoat when finished,especially glossy colors for they will seem to never dry completely.

when in doubt,check out the tutorials section for "ttt's" painting guide;):)

[Malwave]

dude, improvisation is the name of the game. If you can;t find any acessories you need, make em out of stuff you find :D

[Vangelus]

Has anyone had experience disassembling/working with the ROTF scout motorcycle (Knockout, Reverb, Trenchmouth, etc)? I had a repaint idea for him and thought I'd see if I can mooch from the past experiences of others first. :D I am a hardcore noob and fully expecting this to take me a billion years.

Rough idea for the repaint is here:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/Vangelus/kitbash_idea-machinetornader_ridero.jpg

The top half is the important part (Trenchmouth looks like he'd be the easiest to work with), bottom half was mostly just me trying to figure out what I could do with a spare Slap Dash.

I'd also like to go for a metallic red on him- I was thinking I'd just hit the hobby shop and look for a paint jar that looks promising.

He seems easy enough to pull apart into pieces, aside from all the pins in the main transformation joints on his torso. Unfortunately I dunno if I have the equipment to mess with those, I was thinking I could just go through a longer process of moving them around to get at all visible sides of the pieces.

[Nemesis Predaking]

Can't really help you with the disassembly on those two.
But if your looking a paints that would pull of a metallic look really well.
Go get yourself some Testors silver & gold to use as a base coats
& then pick up some Testors #1529 Red Metal MF & #1542 Gold MF.
They are not so much paint as they are "candy" clears (in a way).
It will take numerous coats (5 to 10) to get the look you want, but will some care in application.
It will give you a really great glossy metallic look.

[GMfan]

lol Chopper and Magno? I want you to make a Ferbus custom damn it! :P

Can't really help you with the disassembly on those two.
But if your looking a paints that would pull of a metallic look really well.
Go get yourself some Testors silver & gold to use as a base coats
& then pick up some Testors #1529 Red Metal MF & #1542 Gold MF.
They are not so much paint as they are "candy" clears (in a way).
It will take numerous coats (5 to 10) to get the look you want, but will some care in application.
It will give you a really great glossy metallic look.

This is pretty much what I like to use, the testors stuff is great. As for diassembly considering what you want to do it doesn't seem entirely necessary since it seems like simple additions...easiest way to disassemble without a screw driver just pop off what you can, ball joints, pegs, etc. That figure has many so you're lucky. The other tip I can give ya is to try and remove the current paint apps as best as you can, Isopropyl alcohol bath works, or some REALLY vigorous rubbing....

[Nemesis Predaking]

Anyone ever ran into the problem of paint not wanting to stick to Beast Wars figures.
I'm working on Mal's customs & for the second time, the paint is not sticking to TM Cheetors blue areas.

Any thoughts?

[GMfan]

Try using the Armada repaint for TM Cheetor? Never worked on the original so I don't know what to do there but that Armada one was just black plastic for the most part.

[Nemesis Predaking]

Yeah, that's not going to work.
All the black parts on that one, are not the pieces I'm having issue with.

[TTT]

What paints are you using ?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Krylon Fusion & Krylon Outdoors Spaces.
My tryed & tested brands of choice.

[TTT]

Hmmm well all's I can say is, sanding the plastic may help.
There may be a coating on that plastic that your paints cannot adhere to.
Sanding & primering is an even safer bet.
But theeeeee safest...acrylics.

[Scrapper6]

Should I take my Classics Starscream and re-paint him into Decepticon Reinforcement colors??? I have both Classics Starscream and Universe Starscream and I don't really need two... on the flip side of that though I'd hate to lose the unique color scheme of Classics Starscream... Perhaps if I simply tracked down a loose complete copy to use as the custom fodder that way I can still keep Classics Starscream pristine.

Any advice on the best methods for repainting the mold? I figure I'll need some good paints, a handful of tools to knock the pins out in order to take it apart and properly paint the sucker up. Anybody willing to part with a duplicate they don't need as a possibly budding customizer's first project attempt?

[brr-icy]

the starscream mold needs quite a bit of sanding around the rub areas, but it can be done,

since this thread is up, can iso be used on clear plastic without fogging it? my mindwipe has some overspray on his visor

[chans formers]

the wing hinges are the worst for paint rubbing,along with the small posts that the tail fins rotate on:(

[TTT]

Should I take my Classics Starscream and re-paint him into Decepticon Reinforcement colors??? I have both Classics Starscream and Universe Starscream and I don't really need two... on the flip side of that though I'd hate to lose the unique color scheme of Classics Starscream... Perhaps if I simply tracked down a loose complete copy to use as the custom fodder that way I can still keep Classics Starscream pristine.

Any advice on the best methods for repainting the mold? I figure I'll need some good paints, a handful of tools to knock the pins out in order to take it apart and properly paint the sucker up. Anybody willing to part with a duplicate they don't need as a possibly budding customizer's first project attempt?
Do all your joint trimming first, before you take it apart. Put screws back as you go.


since this thread is up, can iso be used on clear plastic without fogging it? my mindwipe has some overspray on his visor

I would to scrape it off, without scraping it of course.
Somthing dull & plastic, I've used plastic spoons without scratching/scraping, get as much as you can and if you can't get it all off try a little Iso on a toothpick or a clean/new/unused paint brush and only apply it to the paint spot, let dry or wait a minute and scrape away. May have to repeat and have a rag handy cause the iso will "re-liquify" the paint you're trying to remove so it will act like wet paint. Wipe it off quickly if your see any.
Keep the brush clean as well(free of "liquefied paint") otherwise you'll be reapplying it...;)

[Ultra Maverick]

Not sure if this was covered already,

So I applyed some overcoat to a section of my custom, and towards the end of the process I got the "frosting" effect, any way to get rid of this without removing any of the paint?

[chans formers]

Not sure if this was covered already,

So I applyed some overcoat to a section of my custom, and towards the end of the process I got the "frosting" effect, any way to get rid of this without removing any of the paint?
the "frosting" is pretty much from the spray technique you used.try practising on a 2 x 4 or a piece of scrap that's around 2" wide,more so because the standard spray can ranges from a 2-3 sometimes 4" wide spray pattern.what you want is to move in a slow and controlled manner,one end to the other.if you move too fast left to right,you're basically "dusting" the piece,which is where you get the frosting.if you move at just the right speed and distance from it,you want to have it lay down a "wet" coat.but keep in mind that there's a fine line between "wet" coat and "pounding "it on.depending on how thick your other coats are,you may be able to get away with letting what you have on there now completely cure,then simply overcoat again without removing it.just make sure to read the side of the can for optimum dry times just to ensure you don't get a "reation".(cracking/lifting of the previous paint,moreso because of the the solvents used in the paint so that it can "flow out" evenly.:))

[Icetron]

Anyone know where I can buy a pin vice? I need one with swappable drill bits. I have no idea where I can find one locally. Thanks! :)

[brr-icy]

a games workshop will have them i know that

[Icetron]

Cool, I'm near one. I'll check it out. :)

[Star 56]

so im new to customs and am going to start a project in the next few days and was wondering some things

i am going to be repainting Human Alliance Bumble Bee

-how do i post pictuers of it

-I have read nalipolish remover works to strip paint is this a good method of striping the paint

- is it easyer to leave the figuer togehter or take it apart for repainting

-i want to repaint the racing strips on the car a diffrent coulour thant the rest how do make it that i don't paint over onto these

any help would be apprciated!!

[CyberMnky]

There's a few tutorials for paint removal. As for the racing stripes there's a few options. You can either use decals or vinyls (Chans has a vinyl tutorial up), or if you wish to paint, mask off the areas and use very think coats to avoid bleeding through the masking tape

[Star 56]

There's a few tutorials for paint removal. As for the racing stripes there's a few options. You can either use decals or vinyls (Chans has a vinyl tutorial up), or if you wish to paint, mask off the areas and use very think coats to avoid bleeding through the masking tape


ok thanks i will try that

[brr-icy]

i am going to be repainting Human Alliance Bumble Bee

-how do i post pictuers of it

upload to photoucket/imageshack etc, and copy the IMG code to paste

-I have read nalipolish remover works to strip paint is this a good method of striping the paint

only on thicker parts, thinner parts will get weak, also isopropyl alchohol works

- is it easyer to leave the figuer togehter or take it apart for repainting

yes, together you will miss a lot of it, and you can test the fits/rub areas that you will need to sand so the paint stays good

-i want to repaint the racing strips on the car a diffrent coulour thant the rest how do make it that i don't paint over onto these

masking with the blue masking tape after you've sprayed everything and let it cure, make sure the tape is sealed around the edges and you should have no leak through, or vinyl as cybermnky mentioned

[Star 56]

thank you so much brr-icy that helps once i start it and am done i will post pictuers of it

[Stapler]

Hi guys, I'm planning to paint some flames on my HFTD Hubcap. I've studied the flames tutorial in the other thread but I was thinking of making this little project my first with my airbrush.

My question is whether an airbrush may not be as suited to painting flames as just painting them by hand? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

[chans formers]

unless you have really steady hands,the masking/airbrushing way is the way to go.
i think ttt actually has a tutorial in the tutorials section on doing flames with masking/spraying.

[Stapler]

Thanks for the info, Chans. I'll be sure to check that out. :)

[Cliffjumper69]

Hi guys, I'm planning to paint some flames on my HFTD Hubcap. I've studied the flames tutorial in the other thread but I was thinking of making this little project my first with my airbrush.

My question is whether an airbrush may not be as suited to painting flames as just painting them by hand? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

One of the first things I did with my airbrush was flames. IMO free hand flames look a thousand times better ;) You can do it without mask, but you need to practice a lot! This guy on youtube is awesome for tips and tricks with airbrushes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lryNZRFdmhE

Hope that helps, and most airbrushing questions can be answered by this guy on youtube :D

[Nemesis Predaking]

Starfire MK2 also has a really good tutorial on TFW
http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/tutorials-how-tos/214557-how-make-basic-flames.html
I based, what I learned from that thread to (shameless plug)
make a 2 part video on YT about stencil techniques

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O23hqIEyfqE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ufabTGS09k

[Sideswipe]

What kind of tools are recomended for cutting through plastic?

Say A / E / U Unicron thickness?

I'm looking at hacking off part of the legs, arms, carving up the chest, etc...

[Nemesis Predaking]

If you got a Dremel, get a diamond cutting disc.
It's on the expensive side (about $20) but it will give you a very clean & thin cut line.

[Skullgrin]

Since, enamel paints can't be used to paint rubber plastic.

Are there paints that bond better than acrylic's to rubber plastics without causing rubber plastic to get gummy?

[Blurrz]

Any advice on taking out pins?

[Bruticus82]

Any advice on taking out pins?

Typically they only go "in" one way, and they have a textured end which "locks" them in place. So you can only bang the pins in one direction to remove them, the other direction will just tighten it more.

I say typically because some pins can go in/out either way.

You just have to find the right side, get something "flat" to hit the pin with (like a nail with the tip cut off, or...something else flat) get a small hammer. Then you'll need to put the pieces over something so that you have the pin hole lifted above the ground, but the pieces are still supported by something. A piece of wood with a hole in it works well, because the wood supports the parts, while the hole allows the pin somewhere to go without hammering it into the wood.

Line up the hole, pieces with pin, pin removing device (nail?) and hammer, and strike, light taps...a few taps should loosen it up, once it slides partway out, you can either keep tapping, or typically you can pull it out, either with your fingers, or some tools. Don't bend the pin, or you won't be able to get it back in.

[UltraPrimal]

Hey guys, I've got an idea I want to try. Drift as Dinobot. I think it could work. I was even considering tracking down a junker Armada Hoist or Universe Dinobot just to use the head, but after looking at Drifts head and looking at Dinobots head, I realized that they are just similar enough that it would work with the right paint apps. However I have 2 issues:

1 is the swords. I was thinking of painting the smaller swords and then stick pegs onto his wheels for them to attach to mimic his spinning blade shield weapon thing. But I don't know if paint would stick to that kind of rubbery plastic. Has anyone ever tried? Does it crack and flack the second you bend it? And what about his long sword? Should I try cutting it to give it a more serrated look like Dinobots original sword? Or just leave it alone?

And 2, what about his alt mode? I want to pay homage to his raptor color scheme without him looking like a pimp-mobile, but at the same time I want him to looking "realistic". You don't see that many brown cars. Especially sporty racer cars like that.

So any tips, hints, thoughts, ideas, help, etc?

[Dustinticon]

K i wanted to make a custom TFA Spittor head, i have never done a custom or repaint before, so i found some modelling clay around the house and stared making it, i finished it and wanted to harden it, looked it up and apparently you cant harden modelling clay, I don't want to make another one with different stuff. Is there a way i can harden it or make it some what durable? It's just regular blue modelling clay.

[Dustinticon]

Can someone please help me with this one?

[Bruticus82]

K i wanted to make a custom TFA Spittor head, i have never done a custom or repaint before, so i found some modelling clay around the house and stared making it, i finished it and wanted to harden it, looked it up and apparently you cant harden modelling clay, I don't want to make another one with different stuff. Is there a way i can harden it or make it some what durable? It's just regular blue modelling clay.

I don't know of any way to harden it unfortunately.

I did have some crazy idea about you making a casting of it, and then making a copy out of something more durable using the casting, but I don't think you can cast clay because it reacts with the silicone..something about sulfur? You have to get sulfur free clay? I'm not sure I remember, because I don't actually do this stuff myself.

Getting into casting would be moderately expensive since the silicone casting materials are not cheap, and you'd need to learn how to do it, so it might take some trial and error. This is why I say it's a crazy idea, it's probably beyond what you can do at this point. Heck, it's beyond what I can do.

If you do want to sculpt with something you can harden in the future, try Sculpey, fimo, or similar products from Michaels, you can bake them in your oven. Although most customizers use more industrial products, like milliput, or some two part epoxy like might putty. Not easy to work with because it hardens quickly, but you can cut/grind/file it into the shape you want.

[chans formers]

^if you're brave,try "casting" it.^
that would be the only thing i can think of to make it more permanent.

[Dustinticon]

Yea same, well that sucks i guess i'll try clear coating it but that probably wont work, so i guess i'll just go buy some stuff that i can actually harden :P

[Dustinticon]

The only thing is, i don't know how to cast so i'm stuck with doing nothing and remaking one xD

[chans formers]

^if you go to a hobby store, ask for "alu-mite".
if it's the right one,it's a 2 part mix.

[Dustinticon]

Ok i'll try getting around to doing that then i'll post some pics

[Dustinticon]

If i do it and when i'm done.

[Dustinticon]

Do you recommend what to fill the cast with?

[Bruticus82]

However I have 2 issues:

1 is the swords. I was thinking of painting the smaller swords and then stick pegs onto his wheels for them to attach to mimic his spinning blade shield weapon thing. But I don't know if paint would stick to that kind of rubbery plastic. Has anyone ever tried? Does it crack and flack the second you bend it? And what about his long sword? Should I try cutting it to give it a more serrated look like Dinobots original sword? Or just leave it alone?

And 2, what about his alt mode? I want to pay homage to his raptor color scheme without him looking like a pimp-mobile, but at the same time I want him to looking "realistic". You don't see that many brown cars. Especially sporty racer cars like that.

So any tips, hints, thoughts, ideas, help, etc?

1. I painted Universe Cyclonus' ears, they are a similar "soft" plastic. The paint had trouble sticking. I eventually got it to stick, but I don't really "bend" the ears, the paint would probably flake off. I'm not sure about adding "serated" parts...maybe only on the one blade side? Be careful though, I can imagine accidents happening cutting that soft plastic.

2. I'd go with like a metallic brown, like a dark copper or something similar, accent with other metallics, silver, gold. Here's a pic for some inspiration, not sure if you want to go the racing stripe route or not.

http://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/1075/user00129.gif

[Bruticus82]

Do you recommend what to fill the cast with?

Most people use plastic resin. Again, it's something you'll have to buy and mix. You can get issues though, like bubbles in it, or not enough vents and channels that result in missed spaces...it really is something you need to do some research and reading on before you try it.

There should be tutorials on youtube, and model building websites, and one the website of one of these manufacturers, maybe it's even allumite, I'm not sure...I've read and watched some videos before, but I've never done it myself.

[chans formers]

Do you recommend what to fill the cast with?
it should be a small box/lit that you end up buying.
in that kit it will have everything you'll need from stirring sticks,measuring cups to the plastic itself.
you'll end up making a negative "copy" of your cast with rtv silicone(included in the kit),then mixing up the 2 part plastic mix and pour it into the mold you just made of the head with rtv.
more details can be obtained by reading the instructions that come with it:)

[Dustinticon]

K thanks i'll be going to my local hobby shop tomorrow

[damian_1349]

how would i put a custom head onto a figure (marvel crossovers captain america is the figure in question) gonna make the head soon but need to know how to attach it before i start work

[Mumps]

Tiny question...

I need to swap a set of eyes from one Universe Cyclonus to another, but... Shattered Glass Cyclonus's head will not come apart... but Universe Cyclonus comes apart with ease... Could they by chance have glued it as well? So, if thats the case, is there an easy way to get this apart without damaging it? or am I screwed? :p

[Cliffjumper69]

Tiny question...

I need to swap a set of eyes from one Universe Cyclonus to another, but... Shattered Glass Cyclonus's head will not come apart... but Universe Cyclonus comes apart with ease... Could they by chance have glued it as well? So, if thats the case, is there an easy way to get this apart without damaging it? or am I screwed? :p

Its gonna sound crazy but hot boiling water loosens up glue. I had a problem with my first gen FP City Commander's left hand having to much glue on it. I put it in hot water for aboot 30 seconds and after a few dunks it worked :clapping:

Id go a few seconds only for light piping just so it doesnt warp from the heat. I hope this helps! :D

[Mumps]

Thanks CJ! I will try that one tonight.

I did however find out WHY the SG Cyclonus's head is glued, and I found out that the Challenge at Cybertron Cyc's head is the only Cyclonus that does not have glue. The light piping on Challenge Cyclonus just pops right out, no need to even unscrew the head. The guy looks funky with empty eyes! Almost makes me want to see if I can put in a tiny LED in the back of his head..

[Skullgrin]

I wan't to customize a WFC Megatron. By inserting a set of Led lights inside the fusion cannon.

The problem is I have no experience with Led's and I wanted to put two light bulbs in the cannon instead of one. Like one custom I saw online.

Is there a good place that teaches everything about LED's. Or any customizers in Toronto that could help me?

[stillakid]

Starting my first Kitbash, need help

Warpath will be my first kitbash using a classics megatron as a starting point. I've seen other kitbashes for this Warpath so thought that it would be a good starting point for me I've never worked with an epoxy and wanted to know what would be best to use for bonding or sculpting. Would i need separate products for bonding and sculpting? What brand and where can i get it? Preferably in the Vancouver area. Really trying to get my customs to that next level.

Thanks

[bedtime]

ok. i've NEVER kitbashed or modded anything in my life, so PLEASE forgive me if this has come up.

the thing is this: i'm getting a KO defensor, but "hot spot" is red, so he's actually more like inferno (who i dont really like!)

so what i'd like to do is repaint him in that baby blue that is so definitively hot spot... has anyone done a hot spot repaint and could give me some direction here?

[Cliffjumper69]

ok. i've NEVER kitbashed or modded anything in my life, so PLEASE forgive me if this has come up.

the thing is this: i'm getting a KO defensor, but "hot spot" is red, so he's actually more like inferno (who i dont really like!)

so what i'd like to do is repaint him in that baby blue that is so definitively hot spot... has anyone done a hot spot repaint and could give me some direction here?

I havent, but Id say for a first time try using Krylon Fusion. Its a very strong spray if you let it cure long enough. Sand down any rub issues, (major or minor) Do light coats just so the paint can stick to the plastic. Repainting a KO Id use a primer, (Krylon also has a good primer) just so the paint has something extra to stick to. You can get Krylon Fusion at Walmart, and Crappy Tire. It retails for aboot $5.00 a can. :D

I hope this helps :)

[bedtime]

I havent, but Id say for a first time try using Krylon Fusion. Its a very strong spray if you let it cure long enough. Sand down any rub issues, (major or minor) Do light coats just so the paint can stick to the plastic. Repainting a KO Id use a primer, (Krylon also has a good primer) just so the paint has something extra to stick to. You can get Krylon Fusion at Walmart, and Crappy Tire. It retails for aboot $5.00 a can. :D

I hope this helps :)

ok, so if i'm going to go the primer route, do i need to dissolve the clear coat thats on the toy?

[Nemesis Predaking]

ok, so if i'm going to go the primer route, do i need to dissolve the clear coat thats on the toy?

Most toys now days don't have clear coats.
You will want to remove as much of the paint apps as you can, being that it a KO. I'd recommend no higher then 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. Soak your parts & check on them every hour or so.
You'll need a good stiff bristle toothbrush to help get the paint apps off. Rinse off your parts in warm water & give everything a good sanding with 200 grit (no higher then 220).
Your goal is to get your figure to be loose in all joints, but not floppy. this will allow room for the paint your going to apply.

After sanding give all you parts a quick dip in Iso to remove all the plastic dust.

OH & put all your screws back where they came from as you take the figure apart. Last thing you want to do it try to figure out what screw goes where & put one that slightly to big in a post.
And it's also a good idea to put springs & ratchet joints in ziplock bags & label where they came from. (ei, all hip parts in one baggie, all shoulder in one baggie, etc).

Take your time & have fun. Don't worry when you make a mistake. it's going to happen, no matter how careful you try to be.

[bedtime]

^^^awesome info, thanks.

and yeah, i'm not going to be too bummed if i do a crummy job, as it just a KO and will be displayed as defensor... i may or may not get the reprolabels for it too which will help hide any "bad spots" on the toy haha

[Nemesis Predaking]

^^^awesome info, thanks.

and yeah, i'm not going to be too bummed if i do a crummy job, as it just a KO and will be displayed as defensor... i may or may not get the reprolabels for it too which will help hide any "bad spots" on the toy haha

We all got to start somewhere, man.
Take a look at some of my first customs, they are craptacular. lol

http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?t=5732

http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?t=4993

[Malwave]

I have a question regarding LED circuits. Does anyone have a schematic or diagram for how to make a circuit that is activated with an ON/OFF switch?

[Camaroman2]

Quite simple, actually, Malwave. You just need an LED, 2 lengths of red wire, 1 length of black wire, a switch, and a battery.

Don't have a real picture, but it goes something like this:

1 length of red wire-Switch-second length of red wire
LED---------------------------nothing-------------------------battery
--------------single length of the black wire-------------

The red wire is positive, and the black negative.
Hope this helps.

[Shepp]

Quite simple, actually, Malwave. You just need an LED, 2 lengths of red wire, 1 length of black wire, a switch, and a battery.

Don't have a real picture, but it goes something like this:

1 length of red wire-Switch-second length of red wire
LED---------------------------nothing-------------------------battery
--------------single length of the black wire-------------

The red wire is positive, and the black negative.
Hope this helps.

_________{Switch}_______
|....................................|
| +.................................| +
(LED)............................(Battery)
| -..................................| -
|_______________________|

ignore the . since it wont let me use that many spaces.

You may need a resistor somewhere in the circuit, but I can't recall how many Ohms it needs to be.

The flat side of the LED is the negative.

[CyberMnky]

You may need a resistor somewhere in the circuit, but I can't recall how many Ohms it needs to be.


Just google "Resistor calculater" and you should be fine

[Malwave]

Just google "Resistor calculater" and you should be fine

I appreciate the help guys, but I have no idea how much voltage and current an LED bulb can take. That pretty much determines how many ohms the resistor will have, right?

(me = never going to be an electrician ^^; )

[osotech]

if you stay with 3 volts battery (2x1.5volt each, connected end to end) for a single led you dont need resistor.
most led on the market are 3 volts. two button battery (like in watch) or 2 aaa or aa are enough

[Malwave]

if you stay with 3 volts battery (2x1.5volt each, connected end to end) for a single led you dont need resistor.
most led on the market are 3 volts. two button battery (like in watch) or 2 aaa or aa are enough

perfect. so if I got this right, 3 volts to an LED to switch to the battery.

anyone know if The Source sells YELLOW LEDs?

[Buhawi]

perfect. so if I got this right, 3 volts to an LED to switch to the battery.

anyone know if The Source sells YELLOW LEDs?


dollar stores have finger LED. it contains four LEDs with it. one red, one white, one yellow and one green.

[PrimeCron]

I'm thinking to repaint a couple transformers(hasbro) and was wondering what are to the steps by steps and what type of paint is suggested to use to make sure that it doesnt peel off. Do I need to sand down the figures first?

Thank you for input.

[TTT]

I'm thinking to repaint a couple transformers(hasbro) and was wondering what are to the steps by steps and what type of paint is suggested to use to make sure that it doesnt peel off. Do I need to sand down the figures first?

Thank you for input.
Here is a good step by step - start to finish tutorial of what you're asking for, starts with disassembling figures/parts, factory paint removal, masking...etc...
Painting focuses on spray so if you want to use only brush paints lmk, there's a different tut. for that.

http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?t=4006&page=61

As far as the paint peeling off it mainly happens where moving/connecting parts rub.
Sanding/trimming those down is the only way to effectively reduce paint chipping off.
Complete prevention might not be possible in some cases.

[Torque]

How do I put a convincing dent in a metal car. To look as if it were made of a thinner metal?

[safira218]

LOL, nail polish remover, that's a good one. I work at an autobody shop, I use wax and grease remover. Not sure if it works on those TF's plastic, but it works on cars, rubbers, etc, as long as u don't soak it for too long, it is easy to clean afterward. U can actually put it in water to soften the sticker decals. That way u can also remove all the wax and grease, next blow it off, or let it dry. This way u haf less chance to get fisheyes on your paint job, cuz i am not sure if the polish remover has wax or grease in it. It is a pain in the @ss when u get fisheyes....
Thanks for sharing. It's great

[Commandoclone87]

About to do a custom Prowl out of Bumble Bee and was wondering what is the difference between lacquers and enamels and which is better for cars.

[Darth Wave]

Putty Filler!

So currently I'm using "Tamiya Putty White" for really small gaps and holes.
- What do I use for big holes???
- Is there a different brand or putty I should use?
- also is there a faster drying putty out there

By the way.... with all the chips that I have grinded off, can I add super-glue with it and use it as a filler? Same way in using saw dust and glue as a filler!
Has anyone tried this??

Edit: It was suggested that I use car filler so I'll head over to the hardware store and pick some up.

[chans formers]

^i was just going to suggest that.
i prefer either "easy sand" bondo or shortstrand fiberglass.
bondo if it's something small,no more than 1/8th of an inch to maximum 3/16th's of an inch. any thicker than that and you risk having it crack on you.
for the bigger holes/gaps,shortstrand fiberglass is where it's at.

with the bondo though,if you mix it correctly with the hardener,catch it at the right time and you can almost "grade" it like cheese.
wait too long and it'll be like sanding concrete.
i find that if you also use just a smidge less of hardener than recommended,it'll give you that much more time to mess with it.

keep in mind that with the shortstrand fiber,you won't be able to do the "cheese grader" technique,as it contains actual fiberglass strings in it.

above all else......DO NOT USE THE "RED" WANNA-BE PUTTY THAT'S IN A SQUEEZE TUBE.THAT STUFF NEVER COMPLETELY DRIES AND 99% OF THE TIME WILL JUST CRACK AND FLAKE RIGHT OFF!!!!!!
if it's only a one part putty,it won't be near as strong or resistant as a two part;).

[Darth Wave]

THANKS Otis!

At first I was going to just fill everything in with a putty, but now I'm going to try out my Styrene skills. I'll try to build up the holes as much as I can with Styrene and then fill in the small gaps w/ putty.
If it doesn't work then I have the bondo on hand now to us.

[Saotome]

Hey, so I want to take apart a Deluxe Drift to re-paint. I am first stuck at the disassemble step. Screws are obvious, but what about the pin joints? What is the best way to take these apart?

[Saotome]

okay, well while i was waiting for a response, i started to take all the screws out. Holy crap, the screws are cheap as shit. I am an apprentice engineer, I literally spend my whole day screwing things in and out. These screws? stripped like they were made of play-do. I'm only half way done taking apart the second leg, and i cant get any further cause the screws rounded like it was the cool thing to do.

[jourdo]

I've got a how do you take this apart question:

How do you take apart Animated Ultra Magnus?

I've got the arms and legs to a point I am happy with, but would be happier if I could detach the part that connects to the cab. Not sure if this is do-able though.

I want to get access to the electronics and would like to be able to take his head off to do some modifications. Not the end of the world if I cannot do it, but makes the job harder by leaving him together.

Does anyone have some experience with this guy?

Thanks!

[Benzo]

I want to paint my Onslaught like what Vangelus did in his video review (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?p=356186&posted=1#post356186). would Testors model paint work as good as Tamiya paint?

[Nemesis Predaking]

I want to paint my Onslaught like what Vangelus did in his video review (http://www.cybertron.ca/boards/showthread.php?p=356186&posted=1#post356186). would Testors model paint work as good as Tamiya paint?

Testors is Enamel, Tamiya is acrylic.
Tamiya is easy to clean up, you can just use water, Testors you will need some thinner or brush cleaner.
Enamels are also more durable then acrylics.
So if you just looking to "paint & forget", I'd go with Testors Enamels.

[Scrapper6]

Now that I have my three Coneheads in Classics form and with the abundance at TRU of Generations Dirge I started thinking, what steps would I need to take if I wanted to pick up a second Dirge and turn him into his Movieverse Counterpart Mold-Mate Jetblade?

In other words, take Classics Dirge to make Classics Jetblade.

Has any other customizer made a Classics Jetblade out of Dirge before? What wisdom can you share? Think TRU might have a BOGO sale soon so I can score a free Dirge for customizing purposes?

Here's a more specific question. How much priming would I need to do to take the dark blue of Dirge and hide it under the Bone White of Jetblade?

[strag]

So after the customizing class at TFCon I've been bitten by the bug so to speak and have started working on something with a spare Animated Arcee I had kicking around. I've managed to pull almost all the paint off her, but the silver seems to be really resilient for some reason. Everything else came off really easily in 99% isopropanol, but even after soaking it for two hours I can't make a dent in the silver. Is there something else I should be trying or should I just bust out the sandpaper?

[racerguy76]

strag - Soaking it helps, but the metalics need some elbow grease too. Cotton swabs soaked in iso and rub till you can't rub no more. :)

Sandpaper is a good way to go as well. It will help the paint adhere to the plastic. But, once you sand one part it's a good idea to sand all the rest. It will give it a more uniform paint finish.


Scapper6 - With a good sand job it shouldn't take more than a couple light coats to cover the blue on dirge. Use a lighter primer gray, and don't put it on too think, you can get white to cover any color. I have more trouble keeping them white after I've painted than I do with coverage. Very light coats are the key. The first coat should look like it has overspray on it from being behind something you've painted. The other nice thing about light coats is you can spray more often. Instead of 2 or 3 heavy coats in an hour I would do 10-20 very light coats in an hour. Every couple of minutes. Practice makes perfect.

[strag]

Another question(s)! I've picked up some Testor's acrylics just to be on the safe side, but I've also accumulated a decent collection of good quality artist's acrylics, is there any reason why they shouldn't work?

Also, is there any special prep that should be done when painting over translucent plastics? I'm planning on painting over the windshield on that Arcee and the plastic seems a lot smoother, should it be scuffed up w/ sandpaper to give the paint something to stick to?

[brr-icy]

scuffing helps a lot in that case, but make sure it is very fine, you don't want to leave it too rough that it shows through.

[chans formers]

@strag: for both questions in your last 2 posts,the grey scuffing pad i gave everyone in the customs class works wonders.

for the silver,dip the pad in iso and then scrub.it should come off super easy.

and yeah, like brr-icy said,you want something for the paint to bite/stick too.too smooth and it'll come off too easy.

[UltraPrimal]

What's the best way to remove paint from clear plastic? If anyone has seen Cyberfire Bumblebee you know the scary orange eyes he has. Fireburst Optimus Prime would have the same scary blazing eyes, but Hasbro painted over the light-piping on the eyes with blue paint. Is there any way to remove the paint without clouding the color or anything?

[Nemesis Predaking]

What's the best way to remove paint from clear plastic? If anyone has seen Cyberfire Bumblebee you know the scary orange eyes he has. Fireburst Optimus Prime would have the same scary blazing eyes, but Hasbro painted over the light-piping on the eyes with blue paint. Is there any way to remove the paint without clouding the color or anything?

Any clear plastic you run a very high risk of damaging the part. Get some iso alcohol & use a qtip to remove to paint. Being that is such a small part that should work just fine.

[Scrapper6]

How would one go about changing the size of a part after casting a mold from an existing piece...

I've got a vintage Pretender Skullgrin with his weapons intact, but the guns are far too large to look nice with the Generations figure and I got to thinking, if I were to cast some kind of mold of the weapons could I then modify it to a better size?

How would I even make a mold of it to begin with?

I also want to make a mold of his sword so I can modify it to be slightly thinner with the peg, as the peg is just slightly larger than his fist when closed, thus causes slight stress marks to begin to appear around his thumb area which I only just noticed today. And I don't want to just sand down the vintage piece as that would ruin the Pretender Shell's ability to hold it properly.

I was thinking I might also glue or find some way to attach one of th C Joints onto the sword so it can clip onto him in tank mode, haven't decided if I'd modify the guns to do the same yet.

As for the C Joint clip, I can just find a few loose weapons off a junker Skullgrin and canibalize them, and I'm sure I can figure out what to do from there with some careful thinking and observation, but I still am not certain the best way to make a mold from the existing G1 parts I've got, or how to modify the size of the mold to be more in scale, and also how to cast the new piece, like materials and cost wise.

What areas would I be looking in, in the way of cost and materials needs for molding the parts, adjusting the molds to scale and all that.

Or is it too ambitious a project to undertake for a simple garage kit customizer who hasn't customized thing one in his life and has grand plans, but never acts on them?


Edit: The more I think about it, the more I look at Skullgrin, and his classic shell, the more I'm seeing how I might even be able to craft some sort of add-on kit for the guy, had I the design chops necessary to create additional attachment pieces for him in robot mode to mimic certain design cues from his classic Pretender shell and differentiate his base structure from Darkmount further than just the repaint. Unfortunately this would take careful planning and foresight, not to mention ingenuity in designing things, which I perhaps do not have a grand enough vision to pull off.

I mean his robot mode has that huge gap in the back kibble, with a properly scalled piece to fit into the open section you could easily give him added back with the four spikes and odd tech detailing the Pretender shell has. And his shoulders could get those extra spikes, maybe even find a way to create a semi-pretender shell that attaches to him in certain ways and sort of make a modern take on the pretenders, where the shell is more like extra armor... Now, the question is, how to incorporate all of these added bits into vehicle mode, not to mention how to create them without any real know-how or ingenuity??? HMMMM.

[Mumps]

I have a Micromaster that has a missing bit, factory QC error. I just happen to have a spare of this bot, and I would like to switch the bits from one bot to the other, but I am not sure how to deal with the glue.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/Mumps/IMG_1426.jpg

As you can see, the bot in the middle is missing it's ass piece. I want to take the ass piece from the bot on the right, to the bot on the middle. How can I dissolve the glue to get this piece off, without damaging the rest of the toy, or the piece?

[Megatronimus]

Whats the best way to fix Rhinox's head?

Whats the best way to remove the mutant head, get rid of the hinge pegs, and paint over the sides of the head?

I tried google, but no luck.

[racerguy76]

I have a Micromaster that has a missing bit, factory QC error. I just happen to have a spare of this bot, and I would like to switch the bits from one bot to the other, but I am not sure how to deal with the glue.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y103/Mumps/IMG_1426.jpg

As you can see, the bot in the middle is missing it's ass piece. I want to take the ass piece from the bot on the right, to the bot on the middle. How can I dissolve the glue to get this piece off, without damaging the rest of the toy, or the piece?


Instead of hacking apart another head to get the piece, why not make one out of styrene/plastic, drill a hole and glue it on? You can get thicker pieces(2mm thick) or layer 3 or 4 thinner pieces. I would think that would be much easier.

[Mumps]

Instead of hacking apart another head to get the piece, why not make one out of styrene/plastic, drill a hole and glue it on? You can get thicker pieces(2mm thick) or layer 3 or 4 thinner pieces. I would that would be much easier.
I just think it would be easier to do the swap. That way I don't have to bother buying styrene, and a drill >.>

[racerguy76]

Then the easiest way I have found to seperate pieces that are glued together is to use a razor blade or sharp knife to cut along the seam/edges that is/are glued. It's really the only way to ensure you get a clean break when seperating the pieces. The glue that is used actually melts the two parts together. You can try prying with a flatblade screwdriver, but chances are it will break.

[Mumps]

You can try prying with a flatblade screwdriver, but chances are it will break.
Most likely, since these are so tiny. Thanks for the help, I will post the results when I can. :D

[chans formers]

^try heat,as in boiling water/hair dryer/etc.
it may soften the glue enough to seperate it easier.

[bedtime]

a couple of questions: one kind of specific...

1) whats the ideal way to get a pin out? ie the pin that holds rts wreck-gars shoulder thingies on?

2) is that joint at his waist a ball joint? like, if i try pulling him apart at that joint will it just pop off, or will i break something?

[Megatronimus]

Hey guys, I asked this ealier, but Im picking up a 10th Anniversary Rhinox tomorrow, and I wanna know how is the best way to remove the mutant head and get rid of the hinge nubs.

[bedtime]

a couple of questions: one kind of specific...

1) whats the ideal way to get a pin out? ie the pin that holds rts wreck-gars shoulder thingies on?

2) is that joint at his waist a ball joint? like, if i try pulling him apart at that joint will it just pop off, or will i break something?

i figured these both out myself today.

1) well i didnt take any pins out really, but i just painted what i was going to paint anyways

2) it IS a ball joint, but you can separate the torso front to back and get the top part of the toy off that way

[purple-bot]

a couple of questions: one kind of specific...

1) whats the ideal way to get a pin out? ie the pin that holds rts wreck-gars shoulder thingies on?

2) is that joint at his waist a ball joint? like, if i try pulling him apart at that joint will it just pop off, or will i break something?

wreck-gar is a bitch to take apart, you have to remove the main pin running through his chest, then the upper body come apart, you cant access the waist ball joint until you take out that pin

the open part of the ball joint opens towards his chest, so you have to take the chest apart (2 screws in back and pin running shoulder to shoulder), if you just pull him in half, you risk breaking the socket of the ball joint

the pin holding his shoulders on can be removed with a pin punch, i recommend getting one




Hey guys, I asked this ealier, but Im picking up a 10th Anniversary Rhinox tomorrow, and I wanna know how is the best way to remove the mutant head and get rid of the hinge nubs.

i did this to my rhinox, just pull the mask halves off the tabs, i then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the nubs so they flatten a bit (not too much). then took a pair of large nail clippers and clipped off 80-90% of the nub, then you can either sand away the last bit or use a hobby knife to slice off the remainder

[Megatronimus]

i did this to my rhinox, just pull the mask halves off the tabs, i then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the nubs so they flatten a bit (not too much). then took a pair of large nail clippers and clipped off 80-90% of the nub, then you can either sand away the last bit or use a hobby knife to slice off the remainder

When you remove the nubs, is it still green underneath those areas?

[bedtime]

wreck-gar is a bitch to take apart, you have to remove the main pin running through his chest, then the upper body come apart, you cant access the waist ball joint until you take out that pin

the open part of the ball joint opens towards his chest, so you have to take the chest apart (2 screws in back and pin running shoulder to shoulder), if you just pull him in half, you risk breaking the socket of the ball joint

the pin holding his shoulders on can be removed with a pin punch, i recommend getting one



yeah, i kind of sort of wrecked the little tabs the pin goes through on both sides, but it ought to stay shut with just the screws, no?

[ricemazter]

I recently purchased the animated dinobots off of ebay and on my swoop figure the ball joints are a bit loose. I am completely new to modding and customizing and the like, I dont even know what kitbashing is (if anyone could tell me that would be great). So my main question for now is can any body tell me how to tighten the joints? and if so is this applicable to other figures?

[Commandoclone87]

I recently purchased the animated dinobots off of ebay and on my swoop figure the ball joints are a bit loose. I am completely new to modding and customizing and the like, I dont even know what kitbashing is (if anyone could tell me that would be great). So my main question for now is can any body tell me how to tighten the joints? and if so is this applicable to other figures?

cover the ball joint with some clear nail polish and let it dry before reattaching the limb

[racerguy76]

I recently purchased the animated dinobots off of ebay and on my swoop figure the ball joints are a bit loose. I am completely new to modding and customizing and the like, I dont even know what kitbashing is (if anyone could tell me that would be great). So my main question for now is can any body tell me how to tighten the joints? and if so is this applicable to other figures?


Add a small piece of kleennex to the socket side and insert the limb should be much tighter(if you don't have clear nail polish).

[Shepp]

Not exactly Transformers related, but I'm doing my first painting custom. I'm surprised at how much spray paint it actually takes, and equally surprised at how good a single coat looks without even any primer underneath. Then again, the matte black I'm using will more or less be the primers for some gold, brown, and dull brass.

I can't even tell that the Nerf Maverick gun was made of clear plastic. And all the bright neon colours on the other Nerf weapons are covered well.

I'll update this post on which paint brand and type I'm using. But as for technique, I'm spraying slightly with a quick wavy side to side motion instead of blasting a thick coating all at once.

I must say, I'm less scared to paint figures in the future after this.

[damian_1349]

Im starting to plan my first big custom(going to be alot of planning and sketches before i start) and im wondering if there is any way that i can make a custom head from scratch without having to make a mold and cast it. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Also i have skimmed through this thread but i could not find what i was looking for. thanks

[racerguy76]

I'll update this post on which paint brand and type I'm using. But as for technique, I'm spraying slightly with a quick wavy side to side motion instead of blasting a thick coating all at once.

I must say, I'm less scared to paint figures in the future after this.

When spraying(airbrush, or spray can) you should always start spraying away from the object, then pass over it(the object) while spraying and not stop till your past the object. After several passes of 1-2 second bursts, I like to wait about at least a minute before another light coat. After 5 coats the coverage is quite good and there are never any runs. It may be more time consuming that a couple of heavier coats, but I find thick coats tend to rub off and take much longer to dry.

[Shepp]

When spraying(airbrush, or spray can) you should always start spraying away from the object, then pass over it(the object) while spraying and not stop till your past the object. After several passes of 1-2 second bursts, I like to wait about at least a minute before another light coat. After 5 coats the coverage is quite good and there are never any runs. It may be more time consuming that a couple of heavier coats, but I find thick coats tend to rub off and take much longer to dry.


Considering it took an entire can of paint to do a single coat on everything on one side only. I think I'll have to make do with one coat on each side, and a third can in case I missed any spots.

I mean, a dozen Nerf weapons are a lot of surface area to cover, plus all the weird nooks and crannies. But even as plain matte black, they look more awesome and sci-fi than ever.

The paint isn't really as important on these, since its more or less practice for when I'm doing real customs, but thanks for the tip for when I'm painting figures and parts. I'll for sure do multiple coats and actually mask off the motion areas and all that.

I didn't know about the start stop thing, and I'll be sure to do that when I start using some gold, brown, and hammered brass paints on these.

No pics yet, but I am using Krylon paints designed for plastics, except for the gold, which I couldn't find for plastic.

The black I'm using says it doesn't need any primer, but I'm more or less using it as a primer for everywhere I'm covering up. Everywhere else will just remain black.

Oh, its tricky trying to blend the gold and hammered brass to make a sort of worn copper look, but its kinda working.

[Sun Swipe Prime]

My first attempt at painting a transformer. I'm running into some issues and was wondering if anyone could give me some guidence on if I'm doing anything wrong.

I disassembled, washed, and primed all the parts. Now when I'm painting. I'm finding my two lighter colors a Tamiya Red and White aren't sticking compared to my citadel Enchanted blue. Some of my brush strokes pull the paint off the lighter colors.

I dilute the paint with a little alcohol so the coat goes on smoother and, according to google, it kills the gloss which I want. I've done multiple coats. There's lots of molded in details so my brush strokes tend to over lap. After the same number of coats, the blue looks fantastic, but he whites and reds still look very thin in comparison.

I'm wondering is this a problem with my brushng technique or my paints. I found out the hard way that the Citadel paint requires alcohol to clean vs water for the Tamiya. So I'm assuming Tamiya is waterbased vs Citadel being alcohol bases. Yes? Could that be a factor? Would it be a problem if I switched over to Citadels and painted over the Tamiya paints with it?

Any help would be appriciated.

[Nemesis Predaking]

I had the same issue when I thinned my Tamiya paint with alcohol. Try using future floor polish to thin Tamiya paint,
not only does it become "self leveling" in a way (thus minimizing brush strokes) it will also give you a small amount of protection for the paint as it's kind of a "built in" clear coat.

[Sun Swipe Prime]

Thanks I'll give the floor polish thing a try

[bedtime]

has anyone tried taking the pins out of RTS wreck-gars elbows? i just tried and i'm probably just doing it wrong but its not really working. are these notoriously tough ones or do i just need better tools?

[brr-icy]

are you heating the pin with a soldering iron?, it usually helps

[bedtime]

No sir, I haven't tried that as I don't own one. I think I'm going to hunker down and just buy pin punches

[racerguy76]

I find torx bits for the multi screw drivers work really well. I use a vise and push the pin out into a deep 5mm socket. I can take a picture when I get home. It's best to push the pin out the way it was inserted too. Once the cross hatched end it out of the plastic you can use pliers to pull the pin out the rest of the way easily.

[bedtime]

I find torx bits for the multi screw drivers work really well. I use a vise and push the pin out into a deep 5mm socket. I can take a picture when I get home. It's best to push the pin out the way it was inserted too. Once the cross hatched end it out of the plastic you can use pliers to pull the pin out the rest of the way easily.

The best part of the wreck-gar pins is that they have a big flat end on one side so you clearly know which end to push

[Sun Swipe Prime]

No sir, I haven't tried that as I don't own one. I think I'm going to hunker down and just buy pin punches

I've had lots of success using eyeglass repair screw drivers to punch out regular pins, but never tried it on one like wreck-gars. It might be an option to try before you drop the dough.

[Bruticus82]

I've had lots of success using eyeglass repair screw drivers to punch out regular pins, but never tried it on one like wreck-gars. It might be an option to try before you drop the dough.

I've used those small screwdrivers, but also nails or thumbtacks - with the pointed end snipped flat. They're good because you have a wide base on one end to apply pressue, and a thin pin-sized area on the other side to transfer the force to the pin.

I have an old cutting board I work on, and there is a hole in the handle (lord only knows why, maybe to hang it up?). I find it's a great surface for pin removal as I can simply line up the pin overtop of that hole, so the pin has some place to fall into, and the rest of the figure is supported by the board.

[ryceball89]

Hi, I'm new to customizing and I've read several tutorials on cybertron and tfw2005. I'm still stuck when it comes to the autobot and decepticon emblem. Like my Leader Ironhide for example. One of his autobot emblem is on his stomach and it seems to be painted on. So when i repaint him its like that will get covered.

Do i have to repaint one? or can I purchase some kinda of decal of some sort? Thanks for the help guys!

[The Ark]

Hi, I'm new to customizing and I've read several tutorials on cybertron and tfw2005. I'm still stuck when it comes to the autobot and decepticon emblem. Like my Leader Ironhide for example. One of his autobot emblem is on his stomach and it seems to be painted on. So when i repaint him its like that will get covered.

Do i have to repaint one? or can I purchase some kinda of decal of some sort? Thanks for the help guys!

Reprolabels.com offers a wide variety of logos in a wide variety of sizes and colour schemes.

[Bruticus82]

Hi, I'm new to customizing and I've read several tutorials on cybertron and tfw2005. I'm still stuck when it comes to the autobot and decepticon emblem. Like my Leader Ironhide for example. One of his autobot emblem is on his stomach and it seems to be painted on. So when i repaint him its like that will get covered.

Do i have to repaint one? or can I purchase some kinda of decal of some sort? Thanks for the help guys!

If you want to use stickers, you might want to check out reprolabels - they sell a variety of sticker sets, as well as generic autobot and decepticon stickers.

Below I've provided a link to their symbols stickers page. You'll find clear background, white background, gold background, rub symbols, movie and classic g1 style - more symbols than you can shake a stick at.

http://www.reprolabels.com/Symbols/

[ryceball89]

Thank you so much!

While were at it most forums I've read are 50/50 when it comes to painting directly onto the figure or disassembling the figure and spray painting it.

I realize taking it apart and spraying painting it would probably give it a even coat but I want to mix some paint for a specific color. Do you know any tutorial that shows proper 'techniques' when it comes to brush painting so that you don't leave streaks? My only knowledge is to use very little paint and do multiple coats to avoid streaks. I also read somewhere about mixing the paint with something called Future floor polish to help reduce streaks.

Your help is much appreciated!

Also wicked! I'm also in Hamilton! Currently at Mac!

[Robimus]

While were at it most forums I've read are 50/50 when it comes to painting directly onto the figure or disassembling the figure and spray painting it.


I'd at least take as much of it apart as you can. Most legs, arms and the like will pop off.

Brush paining is tricky. I find that spraying Krylon fusion into a plastic container and then brushing it on from there will give you a fairly decent relatively streak free look. I've never mixed Krylon though.

[bedtime]

What size pin punch is standard? The smallest I saw today at crappy tire was 1/8" and it seemed too big...

[brr-icy]

With water based paint, paint the part, then quickly before it dries, put water on your brush, and go over the paint, it'll look really watery, but do it a few coats, and the finish will be perfectly smooth

[chans formers]

Thank you so much!

While were at it most forums I've read are 50/50 when it comes to painting directly onto the figure or disassembling the figure and spray painting it.

I realize taking it apart and spraying painting it would probably give it a even coat but I want to mix some paint for a specific color. Do you know any tutorial that shows proper 'techniques' when it comes to brush painting so that you don't leave streaks? My only knowledge is to use very little paint and do multiple coats to avoid streaks. I also read somewhere about mixing the paint with something called Future floor polish to help reduce streaks.

Your help is much appreciated!

Also wicked! I'm also in Hamilton! Currently at Mac!
for myself,a few light coats with a brush,always going the same direction for the strokes,then 2 light coats of sprayed clearcoat almost always ensure a decent finish when brushing.

[bedtime]

What size pin punch is standard? The smallest I saw today at crappy tire was 1/8" and it seemed too big...

i'm gonna bump this question as i'm going to another canadian tire tomorrow and would love to grab one if i could!

[Nemesis Predaking]

i'm gonna bump this question as i'm going to another canadian tire tomorrow and would love to grab one if i could!

Don't waste your money on a pin punch, just get yourself a picture nail that's the right size for what you need & sand the tip flat. That's what I've used for the last 4 years.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s101/NemesisPredaking/IMG_0270.png

[bedtime]

alright! i'll try that. canadian tire has nails as far as i recall so i'll grab one!

[Nemesis Predaking]

Let me know how it works out for you.

[Bruticus82]

Thank you so much!

While were at it most forums I've read are 50/50 when it comes to painting directly onto the figure or disassembling the figure and spray painting it.

I realize taking it apart and spraying painting it would probably give it a even coat but I want to mix some paint for a specific color. Do you know any tutorial that shows proper 'techniques' when it comes to brush painting so that you don't leave streaks? My only knowledge is to use very little paint and do multiple coats to avoid streaks. I also read somewhere about mixing the paint with something called Future floor polish to help reduce streaks.

Your help is much appreciated!

Also wicked! I'm also in Hamilton! Currently at Mac!

Cool, nice to see another Hamiltonian on the boards.

If you're brush painting basically what others said is right - you don't want the paint too "thick" as it leaves brushstrokes. If it's watery it will kind of self level. Also, resist the urge to touch it up while it's drying - you'll only leave streaks.

Even if you don't have an airbrush, you can get decently smooth finishes with spray paint cans (although this time of year that is tough to do with proper ventilation, etc.).

[bedtime]

Let me know how it works out for you.

ok so i found a nail the right size and filed it down and i'm still having trouble. has anyone else tried taking the elbow pin out of RTS wreck-gar?

[vohkuhl]

I recently bought a KO Ultra Magnus that was painted and I'm not sure what kind of paint the originally owner used.

First time trying to strip paint and I need some options of what to use and how to do it.

Any advise would be much appreciated!

[Bruticus82]

I recently bought a KO Ultra Magnus that was painted and I'm not sure what kind of paint the originally owner used.

First time trying to strip paint and I need some options of what to use and how to do it.

Any advise would be much appreciated!

First try isopropyl alcohol (you can buy the 99% stuff at the drug store, or the 50% stuff at the dollar store).

If that doesn't work, you'll have to try something stronger...

[Nemesis Predaking]

I recently bought a KO Ultra Magnus that was painted and I'm not sure what kind of paint the originally owner used.

First time trying to strip paint and I need some options of what to use and how to do it.

Any advise would be much appreciated!

Easiest & safest bet 70%-99% Isopropanol Alcohol & test it on a small piece, before trying it on the whole thing. Acrylic or Enamel Iso should get rid of it.

[vohkuhl]

Easiest & safest bet 70%-99% Isopropanol Alcohol & test it on a small piece, before trying it on the whole thing. Acrylic or Enamel Iso should get rid of it.

So there two types of Iso? Forgot to ask where do you buy Iso?

[Matrix_Holder]

You can buy the 70-90% at walmart, its a pretty big container but its cheap....under 10 bucks I think.

[Nemesis Predaking]

You can buy the 70-90% at walmart, its a pretty big container but its cheap....under 10 bucks I think.

You can get 99% at Walmart too

[vohkuhl]

You can get 99% at Walmart too

Thanks for the info guys

[vohkuhl]

Forgot to ask, but how should I start stripping the paint off? Immerse the parts for a certain amount of time and use a toothbrush?

[racerguy76]

Thats a good start. Limit the time in the solution till you know what it will do to the plastic. Iso shouldn't hurt it, but it can make it soft. The clear parts tend to react worse. You may need to use something like a qtip or swab. A toothbrush may not work so well.

[Nemesis Predaking]

Everything RG76 is great info.
I'll only add with some shameless self promotion some vids I did for YT, if you want a step by step approach.
Paint Removal Tutorial (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXfZZbmtHb8&feature=plcp&context=C2a019UDOEgsToPDskLLhkV54ZpIk8VJhe3-kgjX)

What can happen to clear/translucent plastic in Iso (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T99f6Lny9wY&feature=plcp&context=C277e8UDOEgsToPDskJBt7MZMLWoMZs8ldQdKdrU)

[Plainsjumper]

Don't substitute nail polish remover for iso alchohol. Nailpolish remover will dissolve your TF's plastic. (Fortunately I found this out tonight in time before any real damage was done...)

Also, Testors hobby sanding films are very nice.

[vohkuhl]

Don't substitute nail polish remover for iso alchohol. Nailpolish remover will dissolve your TF's plastic. (Fortunately I found this out tonight in time before any real damage was done...)

Also, Testors hobby sanding films are very nice.

I tried remover before too, the exact one Encline mentions in person and in his tutorial. I have to say it really does eat away at plastic.

My comment is not meant to bash Encline cause he does great work!

[vohkuhl]

Everything RG76 is great info.
I'll only add with some shameless self promotion some vids I did for YT, if you want a step by step approach.
Paint Removal Tutorial (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXfZZbmtHb8&feature=plcp&context=C2a019UDOEgsToPDskLLhkV54ZpIk8VJhe3-kgjX)

What can happen to clear/translucent plastic in Iso (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T99f6Lny9wY&feature=plcp&context=C277e8UDOEgsToPDskJBt7MZMLWoMZs8ldQdKdrU)

Thanks I added it as a Favorite

[UltraPrimal]

This may be a dumb question, but how long should you wait before applying a second or third coat of paint? I'm using enamel and acrylic.

[Nemesis Predaking]

This may be a dumb question, but how long should you wait before applying a second or third coat of paint? I'm using enamel and acrylic.

Brushing I assume?
Acrylic, 20-30mins
Enamel, 3 to 4 hours
If you see that your "pulling paint" on you next coat with either paints, stop & let it flash longer.

[UltraPrimal]

Brushing I assume?
Acrylic, 20-30mins
Enamel, 3 to 4 hours
If you see that your "pulling paint" on you next coat with either paints, stop & let it flash longer.

Thanks, Stu! Yep, just using the old brush.

I tried doing a second coat of enamel on a couple pieces after a couple hours, and while I wasn't pulling paint, it didn't look right going on.

Also, what do you mean by "flash"? I assume it's pro customizer talk for just let it sit. :D

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Thanks, Stu! Yep, just using the old brush.

I tried doing a second coat of enamel on a couple pieces after a couple hours, and while I wasn't pulling paint, it didn't look right going on.

Also, what do you mean by "flash"? I assume it's pro customizer talk for just let it sit. :D

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

Flash = Flash time (how long til you can handle it)

I rarely totally brush paint, so I'm not a good person to ask.

[Robimus]

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?

In my limited experience I've found that Krylon brushes on quite smooth(just spray it inot an empty butter container or the like), but I suck with water based acrylics and such.

[chans formers]

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?
main thing to remember is to keep your brushed on coats light,then almost always clearcoat over it with a spray.
like some others have said,if you also thin out your paints you're brushing with,it'll help it flow out more even and give you a bit more "work time".
again,with the clear spray though,light coats.

a good motto for spray bombing(rattle can paint)is
"how it sprays is how it stays",which also applies to most paints from a can or gun.

[Plainsjumper]

My comment is not meant to bash Encline cause he does great work!

Mine isn't either... just in case anyone took it that way. Was just relaying my own experience.

I think I will actually try using it again on a qtip for a few hard to reach parts on my figure... apply and remove quickly is what I'm thinking 70% Iso works but is comparatively slow.

[brr-icy]

And any tips on getting a good flat surface without any noticeable brush strokes in it?
when i do mine using games workshop paints, i paint a piece, then dip my brush in the water, and wet the whole surface of the paint, when it dries, it's perfectly smooth

[bedtime]

so guys i've got it in my head that i may try and make a stepper/ricochet out of RTS jazz... anyone have any good ideas for which gold paint to track down?

[Nemesis Predaking]

so guys i've got it in my head that i may try and make a stepper/ricochet out of RTS jazz... anyone have any good ideas for which gold paint to track down?

Whatever you use, stay away from Enamels.
They are always "thicker" then most enamel paints & "glop up" super fast. This applies for all metallic enamel paints.
At least IMO

[brr-icy]

Games workshop blazing gold is nice and easy to apply, I would coat the area in silver first though, it makes it shine better,

[bedtime]

Games workshop blazing gold is nice and easy to apply, I would coat the area in silver first though, it makes it shine better,

thank you! hopefully theres a games workshop near-ish me... i remember one being in the eaton center but i feel like that ones gone now

[bedtime]

Games workshop blazing gold is nice and easy to apply, I would coat the area in silver first though, it makes it shine better,

I emailed a place that sells the GW paint and said they have "burnished gold" and "blazing orange"... Are either of these what you meant?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Looking at GW's site (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat470014a&rootCatGameStyle=)I'd say you gunna want to go with burnished gold.
Blazing orange is the color you would find on any toy gun tip now days

[bedtime]

can anyone recommend a blue paint that'd get me somewhere near the color on deep cover here?

http://tfwiki.net/w2/images2/a/a7/DeepCover-toy.jpg

[Knockout]

Anyone have recommend what to use for Sunstreaker's honey comb ear wings?

[Nemesis Predaking]

can anyone recommend a blue paint that'd get me somewhere near the color on deep cover here?


You might have to custom mix to get an exact match, but Tamiya XF-8 flat blue is a close match.

Anyone have recommend what to use for Sunstreaker's honey comb ear wings?

I'm not to sure what you mean.

[Knockout]

^ I mean the wings on the side of his head, what material would be recommended to use to make them.

[bedtime]

You might have to custom mix to get an exact match, but Tamiya XF-8 flat blue is a close match.

someone on the reprolabels forum suggested just regular old tamiya X-4 blue and its a pretty good match. good enough for me anyways!

[0taku]

So i have a alternator Ricochet and a Bineltech Bluestreak that i want to make into Bumblebee and Cliff Jumper. now i know that Isoprophynol Alcohol will take the paint off of Ricochet but how about Bluestreak since he's metal. will it work for him too??? sorry i'm new and have never done any repaints. i want it to look something like this.

http://www.tfw2005.com/transformers-images/radicons-customs/images/89135-6/Cliffjumper+-+010.jpg
http://www.tfw2005.com/transformers-images/radicons-customs/images/89100-6/Cliffjumper+-+002.jpg

and instead of red it will be yellow for bumblebee. now if it actually turns out like that, your guess will be as good as mine. and also which car should i use for which character.

[Bruticus82]

^ I mean the wings on the side of his head, what material would be recommended to use to make them.

Probably just some sheet styrene cut into the appropriate shape.

[Darth Cylon]

I am wondering if anyone had attempted to mod TFG Scourge into IDW Megatron?

http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/6853/megatron02.jpg

[bedtime]

Hey guys where's the good places to get testors paints?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Micheal's craft store is where I get mine.

[chans formers]

walmart and superstore even have testors;)
just make sure to read the label to verify it's enamel or acrylic,depending on what you wanna use.

[bedtime]

I emailed a place that sells the GW paint and said they have "burnished gold" and "blazing orange"... Are either of these what you meant?

ok so i picked up a thing of tamiya x-12 "gold leaf" and it seems a bit... dull? anyone use this and think the same? i'm hesitant to use it as i feel there may be a brighter/shinier version of gold paint out there...

[Foxw]

actually it works very well, but if you want a brilliant gold finish you will have to spray it atop a white base.

for gold looking things i tend to go with base coat white, middle coat x12 gold, then seal that with clear yellow.

[bedtime]

actually it works very well, but if you want a brilliant gold finish you will have to spray it atop a white base.

for gold looking things i tend to go with base coat white, middle coat x12 gold, then seal that with clear yellow.

ahhh clear yellow! thank you, i will probably give that a try.

[Cheers Ian]

2 Q's -

1)How long should I let something sprayed with Krylon Plastic Fusion "dry" before reassembling a figure?

2)Where's a good place to buy Tamiya paints?

Thanks

[gagagalvatron]

2)Where's a good place to buy Tamiya paints?


J&J Superstore on Weber has Tamiya and Citadel, including Tin Bitz.

Hobby and Toy Central in Sportsworld has Tamiya. This one has a better selection of metallics (golds, silvers, gunmetals) but J&J has better colored metallics (metallic blue pearl, green, purple, etc).

[Cheers Ian]

Ah perfect. Thanks.

[Nemesis Predaking]

1)How long should I let something sprayed with Krylon Plastic Fusion "dry" before reassembling a figure?



7 days at least. Personally I find Fusion overrated. I will still chip, if you have not prepped your figure right.
I find Krylon Outdoor spaces to be a better paint then Fusion, but if you really want something super strong, get yourself some Automotive spray paint.
Either way, 70% of your prep dictates how well your paint will hold up to chipping.

Here's a thread I made years ago on my finding on Fusion Vs OSD
http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/creative-general-discussion/213958-i-may-have-found-paint-better-then-krylon-fusion.html

[Cheers Ian]

Thanks Stu.

How exactly should I "prepare" the parts?

It's only for a small piece this time around. I'll probably use the fusion on one more custom - simply to use it up, then I'll give the automotive spray a try.

2 More Questions

1)What's a good sandable putty/material for filling joints?

2)What's a good sealant that will give a more "matte" finish? Is a sealant even required if I'm working with mostly spray paint and I don't plan on "playing" with the figures much?

[Nemesis Predaking]

Thanks Stu.

How exactly should I "prepare" the parts?

It's only for a small piece this time around. I'll probably use the fusion on one more custom - simply to use it up, then I'll give the automotive spray a try.

Just your standard sanding of all areas & attention to rub issues.


2 More Questions

1)What's a good sandable putty/material for filling joints?

Gameswork shop Green stuff, just don't pay the price they are asking for it.
I get mine off ebay, way cheaper, for way more.

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=Green+Stuff&_sacat=See-All-Categories (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?&customid=afnews&toolid=10001&campid=5335815859&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_fr om%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3DGre en%2BStuff%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories)

2)What's a good sealant that will give a more "matte" finish? Is a sealant even required if I'm working with mostly spray paint and I don't plan on "playing" with the figures much?

You might not have to at all, but if you really worried about it, Testors Dullcote is the way to go, just don't spray it on metallic model paints (Testors or Tamiya), it will make it run.

[bedtime]

Hey guys where's a good place to find testors paint in/around Toronto?

[vohkuhl]

I'm in Vancouver but I got most (well all) from Michael's if that helps.

[racerguy76]

Micheals here in town carries Testors as well, I get most of my stuff from a hobby store called Great Hobbies.

http://www.greathobbies.com/

[vohkuhl]

Anyone know where I can get 5mm pegs (not length)? Preferably plastic...

Thanks

[brr-icy]

Crazy straws apparently are 5mm

[vohkuhl]

Crazy straws apparently are 5mm

Preferably solid instead of hollow but how strong are these straws?

[brr-icy]

Very, they're very rigid plastic, those ones with the spirals and such

[Echotransformer]

Anyone know where I can get 5mm pegs (not length)? Preferably plastic...

Thanks

I save all my old plastic trees from model kits...you know, the extra stuff that you break or cut all the parts from? It's a great source for pegs, even if it's a little thick just clamp one end in cordless drill and spin it while pinching sandpaper to uniformly reduce the diameter.

[vohkuhl]

Sadly I never touched a model piece and I looked up the price of a crazy straw and they aren't cheap. Plus its a waste since most of the straw is curvy.

[gagagalvatron]

Even though this isn't the Hercules thread, I think this thread will have the know-how.

I'm trying to do the Heavy Labor hip replacement, and I can not, for the life of me, get that small screw in the black torso joint out. I think the Hercules of Greek myth was the guy who screwed it in. It does not want to move.

I'm using a good set of screwdrivers, and the Phillips head is starting to strip the screw. The metal of the screw is giving way before the screw itself is moving.

I've been trying with a flathead, but I've made no progress.

Suggestions?

[chans formers]

^pics?(i didn't get this guy as i'm building my own devs)

one trick i use is to make sure the screw driver is seated in all the way into the screw head,then lighty tap it with a hammer to jar it.(this is also a autobody trick to loosen or "crack the seal" to remove rusty ass bolts on older hondas)

another way would be the "echotransformer's" route,dip him in hot water for a bit,ensuring the plastic area around the screw is nice and heated,then try backin out the screw.

worst case scenario,canadian tire has a drill bit set called "screw-out",specifically designed to remove messed up screws.whether or not it'll fit into the actual screw shaft hole i don't know as i don't have the hercules bots.

hope that helps

[gagagalvatron]

Here's a pic:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/blandstalker/heavylabor.png

Thanks for the suggestions and sorry it took me so long to get back. I tried tapping it with a hammer and submerging the area in very hot water -- near boiling for 2 minutes, multiple times. Neither worked. The screw doesn't want to budge.

As you can see, the screw is inside a cylindrical housing. I don't know how the CT screw remover works, but I suspect this will be hard to get at.

[sikkbones]

^pics?(i didn't get this guy as i'm building my own devs)

one trick i use is to make sure the screw driver is seated in all the way into the screw head,then lighty tap it with a hammer to jar it.(this is also a autobody trick to loosen or "crack the seal" to remove rusty ass bolts on older hondas)

another way would be the "echotransformer's" route,dip him in hot water for a bit,ensuring the plastic area around the screw is nice and heated,then try backin out the screw.

worst case scenario,canadian tire has a drill bit set called "screw-out",specifically designed to remove messed up screws.whether or not it'll fit into the actual screw shaft hole i don't know as i don't have the hercules bots.

hope that helps

can they do it in store? My son has a remote for his TRIbot robot... and the screw in it has been stripped.

[Nemesis Predaking]

Here's a pic:

Thanks for the suggestions and sorry it took me so long to get back. I tried tapping it with a hammer and submerging the area in very hot water -- near boiling for 2 minutes, multiple times. Neither worked. The screw doesn't want to budge.

As you can see, the screw is inside a cylindrical housing. I don't know how the CT screw remover works, but I suspect this will be hard to get at.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you want to take the black piece & the legs out, right? or is it just the black piece?
Why not take the green hip section apart to remove the pieces?

Edit: here's a vid my buddy T2RX6 (DemonSS) did on fixing HL, maybe that will help you out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEP6t4-aW3U&feature=plcp&context=C4296660VDvjVQa1PpcFP8p2Sfj8KmrXMF4Xv8GcQ6 HZwNhPPWbWQ=

[racerguy76]

I suggest drilling the screw out. That's what you wil have to do to use an extractor anyway. The screw extractors from CT will not be small enough. It won't be easy but it's the only way to remove it if the head is stripped. You may have trouble finding a bit that small. 1/16 is the most common small bit size in most kits.

Drill straight down and go very slowly. If you have access to a drill press that will help.

[wervenom]

I have never done any customizing and have read this thread from start to finish. I wish to make my first attempts on an RID Prime & Cliffjumper. The Prime will be the harder of the two I am going for.
1) What would be the best type of paints to use?
2) Brushes or spray paints?
3) Is the alchohol or nail poish remover necessary?
Any help would be appreciated. I bought the RID prime but already have the FE and thought the RID isn't as nice and want to try a repaint. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks

[wervenom]

Since I know nothing about this someone mentioned tamiya paints. where can i get them in the gta and can i clearcoat over it after it's done?

[chans formers]

I have never done any customizing and have read this thread from start to finish. I wish to make my first attempts on an RID Prime & Cliffjumper. The Prime will be the harder of the two I am going for.
1) What would be the best type of paints to use?
2) Brushes or spray paints?
3) Is the alchohol or nail poish remover necessary?
Any help would be appreciated. I bought the RID prime but already have the FE and thought the RID isn't as nice and want to try a repaint. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks
1= it's up to you.every customizer out there has their own personal preference.some guys love games work shop paints,some guys like using testors,myself,i like tamiya.
2= spray for large areas,then brushes for detailing.
(or if you're comfortable with it,brush all the way,then a clearcoat spray.
3= alcohol is only necessary if you want to remove paint or tampo's.(some tampoed logos/details will still show through new paint if not sanded/flattened or removed.almost like a 3d imprint under your new paint job.)
otherwise,some good dishsoap and a toothbrush will remove all the mold release agents,grease,etc.

as for the tamiyas,they can be clearcoated.
your local walmarts krylon brand of "krystal clear" clearcoat is totally compatable.just make sure the tamiya is thoroughly dried before clearcoating.

if you get stuck during experimenting,check out the tutorials section here:)

[wervenom]

I am not sure if anyone has decided to dabble with the mold but I want to remove PRID Prime windows/chest but like many of his parts he has pins which are only visible or accessible from one side. Any suggstions or has anyone run into this problem with other figures?

[Scrapper6]

I was curious, anybody take the HA Autobot Whirl mold and repaint/mod it into the Cobra Fang Copter? It does bear a bit of a resemblance to it.

[racerguy76]

I was curious, anybody take the HA Autobot Whirl mold and repaint/mod it into the Cobra Fang Copter? It does bear a bit of a resemblance to it.

I thought about it, haven't found a Whirl on sale yet. I'm hoping to get one at RCSS this weekend, maybe 2 now!

[TwinTwistR]

Can anyone tell a first timer the best glue to use for a custom involving multiple types and grades of plastic on a single figure? (I want the strongest bond possible that will last beyond a single transformation).

Thnx
TTR

[Echotransformer]

Can anyone tell a first timer the best glue to use for a custom involving multiple types and grades of plastic on a single figure? (I want the strongest bond possible that will last beyond a single transformation).

Thnx
TTR

Sincerely, the best glue is a mechanical connection...any thing you can do to reinforce the joint--consider a pin, screw, or even a tab and THEN add glue..I did this with my custom Voyager Galvatron and know for sure it wouldn't be in one piece if I hadn't.

I'm a big fan of epoxy provided the surfaces are sanded first... Plastic weld is another good choice.

[brr-icy]

Plastic weld, I use it almost exclusively now

[T9S4N]

Hey, I am in need of some advice!

I recently bought a shattered glass trailer (same mold as DIA Commander, Shadow Commander, etc.) and it's shoulder's are very loose, as well as the arm parts that you attach. Also, the giant gun it forms won't fold enough for me to put the clip on to hold it...
If anyone has any helpful tips or tricks for this, let me know or post a link to where I can fix it.

Thanks a lot!

[UltraPrimal]

A Shattered Glass City Commander trailer? As far as I know FansProject did not release such a version. Sounds like you bought a knock-off.

[T9S4N]

A Shattered Glass City Commander trailer? As far as I know FansProject did not release such a version. Sounds like you bought a knock-off.

I did, I know I did. lol I was just wondering if anyone knew any tweeks to how to fix these problems.

[Sun Swipe Prime]

^^The shoulders are simple. For my KO Dia Commander I just folded paper and taped it to the sides to narrow the shoulder slots.